FLNS Troubleshooting FAQ

Whenever something doesn't go as planned or hoped, if you didn't find your answer on the Firenock FAQ page, we believe you'll find your solution here.

On other pages...

Firenock FAQ: This main FNLS page offers general specification and feature questions not answered on individual product pages.

  • General FAQAs the name implies, this section is the general or generic questions one might have about Firenock e.g. features, characteristics, use, maintenance, etc.
  • Battery FAQ:  For any specific questions on Firenock batteries (and if you couldn't find your answer in troubleshooting [see below]), this is your section.
  • Extreme Shock End Cap FAQ: If you have any questions about the extreme shock end cap system (including ESEC troubleshooting concerns), this is the place.

FLNS Modification FAQ: For those who have more...unusual arrows, we might have a Firenock modification option for you. 

Aerovane FAQ: Check this page for some clarifications and hints on this complex product.

TQ1: My lighted nock was working fine and now it's not.  What should I do?

For Firenock with an EZ-Coil battery connector, it may be caused by a bad connection due to:

  1. Dirt or oil is deposited on the body of the battery during installation.  Remove the battery and install another one.
  2. The battery was forgotten during installation.  Please find or buy another O-ring—it is essential.
  3. The battery end cap was installed at the wrong depth.  See EQ1 on this page for specific instructions on how to fix this problem.
  4. There was an excessive amount of superglue or there was not a long enough wait time during ESEC installation and Firenock activation, causing the glue vapors to adhere to the battery and its wire connector.  Remove the battery and install another one.  Also, acetone clean the wire connector with a Q-tip.

If your problem still cannot be solved after reading the above, Please contact us for assistance.

TQ2: My Firenock cracked at the base of the nock prongs after a few shots, what is going on?

There are 4 main reasons that can cause this issue:

  1. The serving of the string is old and worn-in, making the shape of the serving no longer round.  This causes an uneven pressure upon a nock and causes the nock to crack.   A new string or redoing the serving should solve the problem.
  2. The string serving is bigger than 0.125"/3.175mm. Most Firenock nock throats are designed to fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.125"/2.92mm with 0.113"/2.86mm as ideal.  Some bow manufacturers bow strings' serving can be as big as 0.135"/3.429mm which is too big to fit the Firenock nock, causing cracking.  A new string or redoing the serving should solve the problem.
  3. The nock is over 3 to 5 years old or the polycarbonate is beginning to degrade.  Pruchase some new nocks.
  4. The nock has been shot through an animal and has score mark(s) on it which can induce premature failure.  Pruchase some new nocks.

TQ3: My lighted nock does not shut off, what should I do?

Under extreme temperature or humidity, Firenock may require 8 seconds for the system to reset before it can be deactivated.  If your system does not deactivate after following the deactivation procedure after those eight-seconds the battery power is probably too low, causing the Firenock no longer able to shut off.  A new battery will solve the problem.

If your circuit is a target model (T/K/0) and does not shut off after 20 seconds or the above answer did not solve the issue, contact us here.

TQ4: My arrow no longer flies true after adding Firenock, what is going on?

By adding Firenock to your arrow, there should be no noticeable effect to the arrow for most archers.  On occasion, when the setup is already at the limit of what can be done with that particular setup, adding an extra 10 to 15 grain can cause issues.  In this situation, the following nock tuning procedure should bring your bow back to where it was.

When you convert from a regular nock to the Firenock (either lighted nock or practice nock), you may run into a few minor tuning problems.  Below we have listed the common such problems and their solutions.  Your specific results could vary depending on your setup, release method, and type of arrow rest.  All information provided below is based on a right-handed shooter, using a mechanical release and a drop-away arrow rest.

  1. Porpoising : Since we are adding weight (approximately 15 additional grain) to the back end of the shaft, the nock will tend to drop as it leaves the bow string.  If you are using a shoot-through type of arrow rest (Whisker Biscuit, Hostage Pro or NAP 360) this may not be noticeable.  If you are using the standard drop-away arrow rest, you may get either a tail up or tail down tear when paper tuning your bow since the arrow will be hitting the bow shelf or rest as it passes by.  This will also be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target -- the nock will porpoise all the way to the target.  A few solutions include:
    • Adjusting the timing of your rest. As long as you have enough clearance, try to adjust the timing of your drop-away to have it start dropping towards the back third of your arrow.  Arrow rests that connect to the cable guard slide or limb (Vapor Trail Limb Driver) work well to correct this situation.
    • Move your D-loop. Another possible solution would be to move your D-loop or nocking point up the string.  Try moving in increments of 1/32" until the situation is corrected.
  2. Stiff Shaft : Any time weight is added to the back end of the arrow, the arrow tends to react as if it is stiffer than normal.  This will be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard range.  The arrow will tend to hit to the left when compared to arrows without weight in the back end of the shaft.  This is more apparent when shooting broadheads.  The arrow may also fishtail all the way to the target.  When paper tuning, you may get a tail right tear.  A few solutions include:
    • Move your arrow rest. The first step should be to move the arrow rest out slightly to try and correct the stiff shaft effect.  If that does not work, try the following additional solutions.
    • Add weight to your point. If you are using 100 grain tips, try 125 grain tips.
    • Use a longer arrow. Try the same arrow only 1/2" to an inch longer.  The additional length will make the arrow more flexible, or less stiff.
  3. Combination : It is possible to have a combination of the above effects.  This would be noticeable by witnessing the nock going in a cork-screw fashion when shooting at the 30 yard target.  Also, you may get a diagonal tear when paper tuning.  Follow the above steps concentrating on the porpoising effect first.  Then move to the stiff shaft effect.

TQ5: My arrow keeps falling off the string after I begin using Firenock, what is going on?

All Firenock styles are designed to be use with a string loop or to fit a specific size of serving.  Please refer to the Firenock Selector for more information on such sizes.  Contact us here for additional assistance.

TQ6: I installed Firenock and now my arrow keeps veering left/right after I shoot it, what is going on?

In some cases when you shoot Firenock with an older bow with a worn-in string, the deformed string will torque the Firenock nock when in full draw.  A new string or redoing the serving should solve the problem.  Please make sure the size of the serving is correct.  Most Firenock nock throats are designed to fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.125"/2.92mm with 0.113"/2.86mm as ideal, but check out the Firenock style for details.

TQ7: My Firenock lighted nock raised from the arrow rest at full draw, what is going on?

 If the serving on the string is larger than the usual 0.125" (3.05 mm), the nock will grab on the string tighter than normal.  For a light weight arrow and a light weight tip, this situation can be obvious.  A smaller size serving or a new string with the correct size serving should solve this problem.  It is recommended to use serving between 0.110" to 0.115" for Firenock styles (A, E, G, S, and V).

TQ8: There was a small gap between my bolt and nock and when I shot it the nock cracked, what is going on?

If there is a gap between the nock and the bolt end, your Firenock lighted nock is not installed properly.  The nock may crack upon impact as the force cannot be transferred evenly.  After inspecting your shaft for cracks, replace and correctly re-install the cracked nock for a new one.

TQ9: My nock got stuck in the shaft midway through insertion, how do I fix this?

Firenocks are designed to fit perfectly into specific shafts.  If your Firenock does not fit your shaft, you may have the wrong style nock for your shaft.  See the Firenock Selector to discover the nock style for you.

To remove a nock too small for a shaft, the easiest way is to use a pair of pliers.  There is a high probability that your nock will be damaged.  If the nock is damaged, please replace the nock.  A small amount of bow string wax or vegetable oil can be applied to the nock before installation for a smoother insertion.

TQ10: My lighted nock makes a rattling sound, what should I do?

There are several reasons why a rattling sound might occur: 

(-2009) : There may be a 0.15 mm gap between the circuit and the nock.  This issue cannot be amended without purchasing a new circuit.  See our Refresh Policy for details on how to get a lower price.

(2010-) : There may be a 0.15 mm gap between an older Firenock LED and a newer polycarbonate nock. Apply a thin layer of Vaseline or silicon gel on the LED and re-insert it back in the polycarbonate nock.  The gel should take up the space and stop the rattling.

TQ11: My arrow makes a rattling sound after I installed the practice matched weight system, what should I do?

While the Firenock practice matched weight is, as its title suggests, the same weight as a standard Firenock system, it is not necessarily the same length.  Due to the fact that the O-ring added onto the battery pin is designed for compression or "snug" fit, as the practice system does not include an O-ring, there may be a 0.75 mm gap between the end of the matched weight and the end cap inside your arrow.

To solve this, pull off some fluff from one end of a cotton bud and drop it into shaft before practice system installation.  This will create some insulation without hampering the other components or adding extra weight.

TQ12: Why did my Firenock turn on by itself after a commercial flight?

There are several reasons why this might happen:

(-2011) : The battery was left installed in the Firenock lighted nock system and passed through airport security.  The Firenock core system is a set of Motorola fuzzy logic chip sets. The high power X-rays used in airports to scan luggage can cause the system to become damaged.  To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when traveling by air.

In the situation that you did forget to remove the battery during air travel, remove the battery as soon as possible after the flight.  Let the nock sit still without the battery for a few minutes, re-install the battery, and test the system no less than 3 times to make sure everything is working properly.  If the nock still turns on by itself after the reset, the logic circuit is damaged and needs to be replaced.  See our warranty page for details on exchanges.

(2011-) : The battery was left installed in the Firenock lighted nock system and bagging handling may accidentally switch on Firenock lighted nock system. To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when traveling. *The problem above is no longer an issue due to Firenock now utilizing an IC system instead of a MOSFET chip set that can be damaged by X-rays.

TQ11: My Firenock G style lighted nock does not work and it only blink once when insert the battery, then the battery seems dead?

All Firenock lighted nock uses the same 425 size lithium battery.  In this class of batteries, the pin is negative while the battery case is positive. Unlike other Firenock styles, the G style is a stack coil battery connection system. This system only touches the top flat part of the battery case while the battery pin is inserted into the gold pin connector. This means when the battery is installed, the only thing that separates the positive from the negative is the battery pin M1x1 O-ring and the location of the 0.1mm coil titanium positive end wire that suppose only touches the outside end of the flat top casing of the battery. If one clockwise twists the battery when one installs the battery onto the circuit board, the circuit's positive wire may wrap itself onto the gold pin wire connector, thus short the circuit and, in most cases, short out the battery. So it is critical when one installs the battery onto the circuit board, one does NOT twist the battery at all. That is why we suggest drop the battery into the arrow, then the circuit board then pushes the nock straight down onto the shaft. For nock tunning, one should also not twist the nock over half a turn when seated down onto the shaft, as this may also cause the battery positive wire to wrap around the battery pin. If more than half a turn is needed, counter-clockwise turn the nock out, align the nock, then push it straight in as desired.