Firenock has up to 3 main models/functions of circuits; hunting (H), target (T), and intermittent(I). Hunting model will continuously light till battery runs out or you manually shut it off; target model will light on around 17 seconds once you shot the arrow and then switch off automatically by itself to allow shooter to make the next shot; while Intermittent will stay lite for 6 seconds then blink till battery runs out or when you manually shut it off.
For hunting (H), an arrow fitted with a hunting Firenock "G" series (e.g. HR = Hunting circuit + Red LED) will turn itself on once the arrow is shot from a bow/crossbow that asserting 65G. Thus there is no physical switch or button to turn on Firenock, thus Firenock is blood proof and weatherproof. The working mechanism of Firenock depends on G switch motion-sensor, internal fuzzy logic system and the time delay sub-system. Once you shot your Firenock, the speed of the arrow will switch on the G switch motion sensor to turn on the LED and then the time delay sub-system will make Firenock staying on even the game is jumping or running violently for at least 1 week using a new battery. To turn off Firenock, one just needs to lift the arrow with the nock end pointing down perpendicular to the ground undisturbed for 4-8 seconds, then drops the nock end perpendicular to a hard surface. For target (T), the Target Firenock (e.g. TB = Target circuit + Blue LED) will be activated just like the Hunting one, but Target Firenock will turn off itself automatically around 17 seconds, so the Target Firenock will not disturb the shooter to do the next shot. Below is a comparison table to show the differencesbetween Firenock G series and other brand lighted nock:
Firenock G series
Other brand lighted nock
Accidental lighting and accidental deactivation
No (Firenock switches on by G switch, controls by fuzzy logic circuit and time delay system to make Firenock staying on even with the game is jumping and running violently)
Yes (for those with physical switch pulling out and pushing in)
Yes (for magnetic system which can be affected by magnetic field / x ray scanner)
Need actuator to turn on Light
No (no touchable physical switch, Firenock switches on by acceleration)
Yes (magnetic system needs a magnet)
Working temperature range
Hunting model: 15°F to 180°F
Target model: 32°F and 140°F
Influence by magnetic field
(Firenock switches on by acceleration)
(Magnetic system one will affect by magnetic field or x ray scanner)
(But will last for years and there is lifetime warranty and 30 days no question ask service)
(But may good for one season or less)
Yes (Nock packs available)
Yes (Battery packs available)
Choice of Nock Styles
(A, C, D, E, F, J, S, V, Q, Y, O will fit most arrows on the market)
Less than 4 models
Yes (battery packs available)
Choice of nock colors
Up to 9 colors (red, pink, orange, yellow, green, blue, clear, smoke, wood)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of LED colors
Up to 6 colors (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, white)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of battery
BR (shelf life ~ 1 year)
BL (shelf life ~ 3 years)
Reliable to shoot into concrete
(With extreme shot end cap installed)
Different functions of Circuits
3 types: Hunting, Target, Intermittent
Nock and circuit interchangeability
Yes (e.g. S circuit can interchange with 11 styles of nocks, S nock can interchange with 3 types of circuits)
Longevity of LED
Hunting: up to 6 weeks
Spin balanced, Rattle proof
Yes (with the O ring and extreme end cap systems installed)
Up to 120 yards
Weather proof, blood proof
Yes (gold plated connector and epoxy coated circuit)
To resolve confusion on the product codes and as all Firenock that are sold through Firenock LLC are based on G-force, there is no reason to use the "G" in any product code and therefore “G” was removed from all product codes. Under the new code system, the old codes such as GS, GA, GE, GC, and GF as of 2010 are now called as S3, A3, E3, C3 and F3 (the 1st character indicated nock style and the 2nd letter indicated number of hunting circuits in a pack).
a. Wait 4-8 seconds after activation before trying to deactivate the system.
b. Lift the arrow (nock-end down) no less than 8 inches (20 cm) above a semi-hard flat surface.
c. Drop the arrow (nock-end down) and allow the nock to hit the surface via gravitational force.
d. Upon impact, the Firenock will deactivate automatically.
e. If the nock does not deactivate, repeat Steps (b-c) and raise the distance in 2-inch (5 cm) increments until the unit deactivates.
Note: A pine block, the top of your boots or the inside floor of your truck are examples of semi-hard surfaces. If the Firenock does not shut off after a free-fall distance is as high as 12" (30 cm), please return your Firenock in for warranty replacement if it is within the warranty period
To install the battery, DO NOT use your fingernail to force the cross lock wire onto the neck of the battery as injuries have occurred while doing this. After inserting the battery into the pin connector and with the cross loop just over the neck, ROTATE the battery counterclockwise to let the cross lock wire goes smoothly into the battery neck. Then, flip the "C" lock (wire end) over the battery and the battery installation is completed. Note: the "C" lock should go around the battery slightly IN FRONT of the O-ring grove located near the end of the battery. To remove the battery, flip up the "C" lock wire to unlock and then rotate the battery clockwise. The cross lock wire will open wide and the battery can be easily removed.
The following Video would also how you how install the battery onto a Firenock.
The best way to tell if the 3V lithium battery is still good is to use a battery tester. A volt meter only shows if the battery voltage output, which have no correlation to if the battery have power. In case of the Firenock batteries, even when they are 90% drained, they may still show 3.0v. After testing and using many battery testers, GB Instruments™ GBT-500A Battery Tester which is available at most on-line retail store (e.g. www.amazon.com) and most hardware store (e.g. ACE Hardware, Menards) for about $10.00. This seems to work the best for its price and size.
To test Firenock battery with it, set the dial at "LITHIUM 3V", use the red probe (positive) to the shell of the battery and the black probe (negative) to the pin of the battery
The 435 size battery in general is about 50% heavier than the 425 size battery. In case of the standard Firenock BR battery, instead of the usually 9 grains it would be14 grains. During out initial test back in 2006, we discover that the 9 grains battery would exert over 40KgF or close to 90 lbs of force when impact at a target at about 390 fps; at 14 grains, the force would be over 160lb force. This amount of force would make any lighted nock unreliable; UNLESS extreme shock end cap is part of the installation. With deep understanding of physics, material science, and archery operation; it was decided that less weight is more important than longevity of the light. With Firenock's current hunting circuit already able to produce light for up to 6 weeks, it is more than excessive. There is really no reason to over stress the system and upset the FOC any further than what is necessary. Therefore there is really o reason to offer a heavier and larger battery than the current 425 size batteries we have.
For Firenock BR battery, BR has only 8-13 months shelf life, starting from the factory manufacturing date. There is no real way to prolong the battery shelf life. It is also a known fact that when the battery is exposed to heat like over 100F, the heat will significantly shorten the battery shelf life and usage life. In other words, the capacity of the BR battery is just like a full bucket of water that would dry out under strong sunlight. But the special chemistry of the BR battery makes it to function as low as -17F which this makes Firenock able to light up continuously for a few under very cold temperature.
For Firenock BL battery, BL has about 36 months shelf life. Although BL battery has a longer shelf life than BR, it does not mean that one can only change BL battery after 3 years. As Firenock, like all electronic things, will drain a small amount of power (slow drain) when the battery is installed, and thus the battery may die within one year after installation. Therefore when Firenock will not be used for a long while, one should remove the battery from the circuit and store the battery in its original holder in a cool place (like inside drawer in a basement). By lowering the temperature, the chemistry can be stabilized and would allow the BL battery to last for full 3 years without use.
For Firenock BU battery, BU has a theoretical shelf life of 200 years as it known degradation rate is 0.5% per year. Although BU battery has an unusual long shelf life than another other batteries, it does not mean that one can only change BU battery when it has been fired. Firenock, like all electronic things, will drain a small amount of power (slow drain) when the battery is installed, and thus the battery may die under one year after installation as its total storage power is less than BL battery. Therefore when one choose to use Firenock BU battery and knowing that it will not be used for a long while, one should remove the battery from the circuit and store the battery in its original holder in a cool place (like inside drawer in a basement). Under room temperature, the chemistry can be stabilized and would allow the BU battery to last years without use, which make it the best long term back up battery we offered.
The Target (T) Firenock also uses the same acceleration switch (G switch) as does the Hunting Firenock "G" series, but the Target Firenock will automatically deactivate itself after 15 to 17 seconds instead of continuously light on. These 17 seconds will allow shooters to see their arrows easily on the target but will allow the shooter to make the next shoot without influence from the last shot. Unlike many other attempts using capacitor or pure digital designs to make reliable target nock system, Firenock target nocks are based on an IC (integrated circuit) design that uses a digital time counter. Capacitor designs are not reliable and they are not dependable under higher temperatures, this is because battery voltage tends to drop in cold weather. While for pure digital designs, it will not function well under low temperature environment. Thus Firenock chose integrated circuit design to eliminate these problems.
The target nock system is available in the Ultimate pack in "SU", "AU", "EU". Each Ultimate pack contains 3 target circuits, 3 hunting circuits, 6 matched weights, 18 nocks, and 6 O-rings. It is also available in circuit packs (TB, TC, TG, KB, KC, KG etc.) which each pack contains 3 Target circuits and one chooses his/her own preferred nocks (optional) to fit the circuits.
Target Firenock has a high temperature tolerance, but it is not as good as Hunting Firenock. From our tests, we concluded that Target Nocks will work dependably between 32°F and 140°F; which this should be fine for most target purposes. In situations where the temperature is lower than 32°F, the duration that the light will operate on a Target Firenock may not be predictable as too low temperature will drop the battery power/voltage output which may cause the digital timer to count incorrectly..
Firenock G series is designed from the ground up to be as water resistance as possible as Firenock utilizes 24K gold plated connectors and the system is UV cure epoxy coated. This makes Firenock a lot more suitable for bow-fishing applications. For brackish and salt water bow fishing, optional accessory is needed to make Firenock more reliable in those tough situations as water resistance alone is not going to make it. That is why Firenock LLC makes a whole series of bow-fishing accessories - Hydro™.
Firenock currently makes 3 bow-fishing adapters to suit what most Fishermen's need.
Standard 5/16" Fiberglass arrow adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on 5/16" solid fiberglass bow-fishing arrows.
Carbon Arrow Internal adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on Carbon bow-fishing arrows with an internal diameter of ~0.244" - 0.246 and 1.0" inch of space. The adapter also has a pre-tapped hole to accept the slide stop.
Carbon Arrow Collar adapter, this adapter can be used as a single piece or 2 pieces design. It also allows one to use the extended battery for Firenock. It is the pinnacle of all Firenock Hydro series of bow-fishing adapter The only down side is that not all carbon arrows are made to work with this adapter
As of 2013, the following 5 states (Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Wyoming) have laws that state it is illegal to use any electronics on the archery hunting equipment during archery season to harvest game. These laws make any battery powered lighted nock illegal to be used to harvest game during archery season with archery equipment. In states with general hunting seasons, it is however legal to use a lighted nock during the general hunting season with archery gear. Please check the latest updated regulation(s) for each state one wants to archery hunt to make sure one complies with the specific law(s) of the state on how an animal can be legally harvested with your archery equipment at all times.
2010 update: It is legal to use lighted nock in North Dakota as of 2010 as stated on its web site.
2013 update: It is legal to use lighted nock in Washington as of 2013.
In order to make Firenock the best and most versatile lighted nock system, Firenock took the only route that would allow us to achieve these two goals. We designed and made our own unique nocks! This process is expensive and complicated, but it was the only way to manufacture the finest lighted nock for the market. Each Firenock mold is designed with an extremely tight tolerance (0.001 mm). Firenock uses only the best polycarbonate. Based on polycarbonate published specification, we know that it has a superior ability to solve problems like memory and shear force. We are also able to control the optical characteristics of each nock. Polycarbonate also allows better light transmission so you can see the light better.
To satisfy the demands of the most discriminating target shooters or hunters and to achieve best quality control, all production molds of Firenock "G" series nocks have mold numbers on them. This control measure allows us to provide matched nocks that will be within 0.000001 mm and 0.01 grain of variance. You can found nock code and a number on each piece of nock (e.g. Y1 means Y mold whereas 1 means mold cavity 1)
According to our test bench, Firenock shot without the circuit boards installed, we consistently achieved 1 to 2 ft/sec higher speed than most other manufacturers’ nocks. When you use Firenock, you not only get the most reliable, the lightest and the brightest lighted nock on the market, but you also get one of the fastest shooting nocks.
There are currently up to 9 colors of nock and up to 6 LED colors of circuit (for details, see color chart), thus a combination of 54 colors of light can be produced for Firenock nocks and circuits. This is achieved as Firenock is nock field changeable, thus a red LED circuit can fit with different colors of nock to produce different colors of light. Below is a table showing current available nock colors and circuit LED colors and the combination of (light) which can be produced.
Nock styles of Firenock
Circuit LED colors
Light colors (Nock colors x Circuit LED colors)
There are 3 colors of nocks and 6 colored LEDs or 18 colors of light for Firenock "Y" style.
There are 3 different sizes of circuit (S, A, 0) which each sizes of circuit can have up to 3 different functions (H, T, I). The hunting (H) function circuit will stay lit until deactivation or when the battery runs out. The target (T) function circuit will automatically shut itself off after 15-17 seconds. The intermittent (I) circuit will stay solid for 6 seconds and blink for 7 to 10 days and as high as 14 days. As of 2011 there is very minor outlook difference between the 3 styles of circuit as they all have a small black dot on it as all Firenocks are now utilizing custom IC design. To tell what function of circuit it is, there is a letter (H/T/I) on one side of the circuit (old production may not has the letter). To tell which style of circuit will fit which style of nock; the position of the clip and lock tabs of nock will indicate if the circuit is designed for either the C/D/F/J/Q/S/V/Y or the A/E nocks. The circuits that will fit the A/E nock style (N/K series) have the horns / tabs next to the LED while the C/D/F/J/Q/S/V/Y nock style (H/T/I series) have the horns / tabs next to the mini-G switch. Below are the pictures (front and back) of 2011's 5(6) series of Firenock circuits. The MOSFET hunting circuit will be still available for sale till sold out as some LED color circuits are selling slower due to demand, but we have to make a certain quantity at one time.
Firenock offers up to 54 colors of lighted nock for nearly every single lighting condition which one can find on the market and one would want for a lighted nock. One can choose the best combination one likes as long as stock is available. In most cases, red nock on a red LED is the best, which this choice is also found for cars as all tail lights of most vehicles are red color too. There are, however, cases that other colors besides red on red would be better, people with color blindness or under specific environment are examples which red on red would not be preferred. For color blindness (red and green color blind person), experience showed that yellow nock on yellows LED or green nock on yellow LED generally works very well. For specific environment, green on green is a very good combination as spring turkey is found on a green background. We are also advised that blue on blue looks wonderful under indoor fluorescent lighting or outdoor hunting in the dark during moonless nights.
As stated in Pope and Young equipment definitions, Rule I,C.1.(c) Electronic or battery-powered devices shall not be attached to a hunting bow. Therefore if you use a lighted nock, you need to ask yourself like the State of Colorado did, "Does the arrow can be consider a part that is attached to the bow?" If the answer is yes, then it the answer to this question is yes. FYI, the last official ruling from P&Y was also a yes to this question. Therefore if you wanted to enter your harvest game in P&Y record book and you are using Firenock, make sure you use the practice nock (matched weight nock) for the shot, or your down game is not P&Y eligible. B&C record book however have no such rules against the using of a lighted nock on harvest game.
By adding Firenock to one's arrow, there should be no noticeable effect to the arrow for most archers. In occasion, when the set up is already at the limit of what can be done with that particular setup, by adding an extra 10 to 15 grains, all is right is no longer true. Under this condition, the following nock tuning procedure should bring your bow back to where you were, if not significantly improve on what you used to have.
When one converts from the regular nock to the Firenock (either lighted nock or practice nock), one may run into a few minor tuning situations; which are listed below. One's specific results could vary depending on the setup, release method and type of arrow rest. All information provided below is based on a right-handed shooter, using a mechanical release and a drop-away arrow rest.
Porpoising: Since we are adding weight (approximately 15 additional grains) to the back end of the shaft, the nock will tend to drop as it leaves the bow string. If you are using a shoot through type of arrow rest (Whisker Biscuit, Hostage Pro or NAP 360) this may not be noticeable. If you are using the standard drop-away arrow rest, you may get either a tail up or tail down tear when paper tuning your bow since the arrow will be hitting the bow shelf or rest as it passes by. This will also be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target; the nock will porpoise all the way to the target. A few solutions include
Adjusting the timing of your rest: As long as you have enough clearance, try to adjust the timing of your drop-away to have it start dropping towards the back third of your arrow. Arrow rests that connect to the cable guard slide or limb (Vapor Trail Limb Driver) work well to correct this situation.
Move D-loop: Another possible solution would be to move your d-loop or nocking point up the string. Try moving in increments of 1/32 of an inch until the situation is corrected.
Stiff Shaft: Anytime we add weight to the back end of the arrow, the arrow tends to react as if it is stiffer than normal. This will be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target, the arrow will tend to hit to the left when compared to arrows without weight in the back end of the shaft. This is more apparent when shooting broad heads. The arrow may also fishtail all the way to the target. When paper tuning, you may get a tail right tear. A few solutions include:
Move arrow rest: The first step should be to move the arrow rest out slightly to try and correct the stiff shaft effect. If that does not work, try the following additional solutions
Adding weight to the point: If you are using 100 grain tips, try 125 grain tips.
Longer arrow: Try the same arrow only 1/2 to 1 inch longer. The additional length will make the arrow more flexible, or less stiff.
Combination: It is possible you have a combination of the above effects. This would be noticeable by witnessing the nock going in a cork-screw fashion when shooting at the 30 yard target. Also, you may get a diagonal tear when paper tuning. Follow the above steps concentrating on the porpoising effect first. Then move to the left and right effect.
All Firenock styles besides the crossbow systems are designed to use with a string loop. If you use the under the nock type anchor/release, and any bow with ATA shorter than 35", the chance that the nock falling off the string is very high. This is due to that Firenock's nock throat is very short and very precise to give you the most precision release available. If you use under the nock type anchoring point, when the bow is at full draw, due to the angle of the string, the nock can be forced out of the string from its nock point. You may not notice it when you are practicing on the ground as the bow is level. This sure will be a big problem when your bow point is pointed down and the arrow will fall off. We do not see a solution to this problem except changing your string set up.
In some cases when you shot Firenock with an older bow with a worn-in string, the string with its deformed shaped based on the old nock will torque the Firenock when in full pull and release. A new string or redoing the serving to be perfectly round and making sure the size of the serving is between 0.110" to 0.120" is all it takes to solve this issue.
There is 2 main reasons that can cause this issue.
The roundness of the string: If the serving on the string is old and it is worn-in, the shape of the serving is no longer round. This would form an uneven pressure to the nock and thus cause it to crack the nock as it is being torqued when shot. If the serving is not even, this will also cause this to happen.
The thickness of the string: Firenock's nock throat is to do perfect fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.120/3.05mm". Some bow manufacturers' bow strings serving are as thick as 0.135"/3.429 mm. This thickness is way thicker even then the Firenock's nock's prong's passage way. In minor case, one would notice a left kick of the arrow when shot. If the string serving are thicker than 0.125"/3.175mm, the nock can actually crack. CAUTION: Using Firenock on string serving that is thicker than what is recommended may cause the nock to crack, bow to dry fire, and serious body inquiry may occur.
A thinner and/or new serving on the string or a new string with thinner serving will solve this problem in most cases.
If the serving on the string is larger than the usual 0.12" (3.05mm), the nock will grab on the string tighter than normal. In case of a light weight arrow and a light weight tip, this can be even more visible. A thinner serving or a new string with a thinner serving will take care of this issue.
Firenock "A" style nock will fit slim shafts with internal diameter of 0.202" to 0.204". The ID of the Axis arrow is 0.202", which in most cases, do not need to use any O-ring to take up the slack between the battery, battery wire and the ID of the arrow shaft. For standard battery [BR] which have a deeper grove, Firenock pack comes with O-ring(s) to fill the void if any do exist. When using [BL] our light battery which have a much shallower grove, no O-ring is needed for the Firenock installation on the battery.
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing will need to be removed in order for the Firenock to work properly. All Firenock systems require at least 3 full circumference contacts with the inside wall of the arrow shaft in order to function properly. First is the neck of the nock so it seats properly. Seconds, is right on where the clip and lock system is so the circuit is locked in, or it will fly out on impact. Third is position of the O-ring is and make sure all components align perfectly straight. The Uni-Bushing system makes these multiple contact points impossible to achieve. Some people have tried to glue the circuit into the nock so that it would work in aluminum arrows, but the performance and results have been marginal at best. This is because there is no support for the battery and thus cause the arrow not to be able spin balance correctly. Thus we do not recommend Firenock system be installed in ANY arrow that has a Uni-Bushing system installed.
Firenock "E" style nock is what is needed to fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter all have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280, and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. With the factory uni-bushing installed, it is very easy to think that a Firenock "A" style will fit as the Easton "X" nock is about the same size. This is not the case, in order for Firenock to work properly, the Firenock unit must make no less than 3 full circumference contacts with the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The presence of a Uni-bushing makes it impossible for Firenock to work properly. The circuit will fly out from the nock when shot at any object; the entire unit will also not be able spin balance inside the shaft. These are the only immediate issues that had been observed. Therefore in order to use Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be removed. Since the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue, forcing it out is close to impossible, and heating the shaft will cause separating of the aluminum from the carbon layer. This leads to the only obvious solution, to cut it out. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ended is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that there may be a tiny bit of polycarbonate to shave off from the shaft when you push in the Firenock "E" style nock the very first time, this is normal and part of the "E" nock's multi-diameter/size fit design.
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. Therefore one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. With minor modification, the Firenock "S" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade and shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" which would allow the Firenock to make better contact with the interior wall of the arrow shaft, 0.240".
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. Therefore one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. After the tests, we concluded that Firenock 'E' style nock can fit all the following sizes with no or some modifications. Firenock 'E' style design is based on an oversized Firenock "A" style mold which has a cylinder of 0.2047". Now with the 12 ridges being 0.0129" high each, it can easily be shaved to fit. Size as follows:
Epic/Excel has an inside diameter of ~0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 has an inside diameter of ~0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 has an inside diameter of ~0.220" or 5.56mm => Need to shave off half of all ridges to fit
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. Therefore one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. With minor modification, the Firenock "S" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-71/300 arrows too. The internal diameter of the AC/C 3-71/300 is 0.252", the outside diameter of Firenock S style is 0.250". To make a tight fit, there should be at least 0.004" compression with Firenock "S" style nock. As all A/C/C 3-71/300 comes with UNI bushing installed, by physically pulling the UNI-bushing out, there is usually some glue left inside the shaft. From our experience, the glue is about 0.005" to 0.006" thick. By NOT removing any of the glue, the inside diameter of the shaft decreases by 0.006" which is just about right for the Firenock "S" style (0.252" - 0.006"= 0.246"; same as Gold Tip). It is not perfect, but for those who wanted to use Firenock for their A/C/C 3-71, this is the easiest way we have found.
If the UNI-bushing was cut during the process, you are dealing with a clean shaft. Use super glue that are apply by a brush and brush the inside of the shaft a few times. This will coat the inside of the shaft and built up the internal diameter to fit the Firenock S style nock.
We used to use "E" nock for the A/C/C 3-28/500, but our customers taught us a better way.
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. Therefore one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. With minor modification, the Firenock "A" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-28/500 arrows with better look and finish compared to the E style Firenock. The internal diameter of the A/C/C 3-28/500 is 0.205", the outside diameter of Firenock A style is 0.204". To make a tight fit, there should be at least 0.003" compression with Firenock "A" style nock due to small size. As all A/C/C 3-28/500 comes with UNI bushing installed, by physically pulling the UNI-bushing out, there is usually some glue left inside the shaft. From our experience, the glue is about 0.002" to 0.003" thick. By NOT removing any of the glue, the inside diameter of the shaft decreases by 0.003" which is just about right for the Firenock "A" style (0.205" - 0.003"= 0.202"; same as what is consider perfect fit for Firenock A). It is not out of the box perfect, but for those who wanted to use Firenock for their A/C/C 3-28, this is the easiest way we have found.
If the UNI-bushing was cut during the process, you are dealing with a clean shaft. Use super glue that are apply by a brush and brush the inside of the shaft a few times and let dry. Repeat this process until it coats the inside of the shaft and built up the internal diameter to fit the Firenock A style nock.
For those who has their arrow fletched then decided to use Firenock need to remove the uni-bushing in order to have a perfect installation. Without removing the insert or reflecting the arrow, there are only 2 known way to do it:
1) Mechanically: After removing the nock, use a wood thread screw to so it can bite into the uni-bushing to form strong contact. Use the largest vise grip you have access to and crimp tight at the head of the screw. Put the vise grip sideway on a block of wood so it lay flat; the arrow should be pointing top the sky. Lift the arrow with one hand so it is about half an inched form the wood, use a hammer to hit as close to the screw on the vise grip as possible. The strike force will assert direct downward force and pop the uni-bushing out with the screw in it.
2) Thermally: After removing the nock, try to locate a nail that barely fit inside the hole of the uni-bushing. Heat the nail with open flame. The heat energy will transfer from the nail to the uni-bushing, and soften the glue between the uni-bushing and the shaft which all allow the uni-bushing to be extracted from the shaft without causing damage the shaft.
Most Carbon Impact shaft's ID is 0.242". Firenock "S" style is designed to fit any archery projectile that has an ID of 0.242" to 0.246". In some cases, the ID due to rough cutting or manufacturing variance, can be as small as 0.2415". It may feel a tight to someone, but it will fit that shaft no doubt. One can smudge some bow wax on the colors of the nock as lubricant to make the installation easier. For those who prefer finger tight installation on the "S" style Firenock for ease of battery change, you can slightly shave off the 2 flat top pyramid at the base of the nock, shave down the eight ridges, and slightly round out/burr out the inside of the shaft for easy fitting.
Firenock C and F are both triple O-ring design. Each package of Firenock standard size crossbow nocks come with 4 sizes of O-rings. By following the O-ring installation chart in the installation manual, you can fit a Firenock C/F nock into nearly every standard crossbow bolt that is listed on back of the installation manual.
Firenock crossbow nocks use a dual O-ring system for holding onto the bolt, so the nock can be field replaced and field change the battery with no tools. This design is especially critical as it will not allow the nock to pop out even under extreme force. The dual O-ring on the nock will prevent one from just pushing in the nock, or a gap will appear. By the same process, it also does not allow one to easily push in the nock in and be flush. If there is a gap between the nock and the bolt end, the nock may crack upon impact as there is no full contact surface to transfer the force evenly. The only known way to get the nock install flush is by twisting the nock in slowly while inserting it and pulling it out slowly with continuous force.
In case you using slim crossbow bolt like Carbon Express crossbow bolts, Firenock "Y" style is what one should use.
Firenock "Y" crossbow nocks tube diameter is 0.273" and with the ridge it is 0.282". With ridges it fit the Carbon Express crossbow bolts and Parker Red Hot nicely if you have the old bolts that need to drill out the nock. In 2010, many Carbon Express bolts, Red-hot bolts all have their nock press in instead of glue in. The actual diameter of the inside of the current non-glue bolt can be as small as 0.2815". Knowing this, it is advised that one should drop a tiny bit of super gel at the base of the nock so it makes a single glue contact with the shaft. This will ensure the nock will not turn or pop out during normal operation, and one can easily break that glue to change the battery if needed. We shall address the sizing issue with our mold change and be by 2011 season; as the real size of the shaft is now known.
With all 8 plus ridges shaved off, the Y nock will also fit the Crossfire bolts made by Vapor AKA Gold Tip Laser II Kinetics, AKA Gold Tip Laser IV which is 0.273". To make the Y nock sit totally flush with the bolt, one needs to counter sink 1/32" to allow the wedged neck to sink perfectly into the shaft.
Firenock crossbow nocks use a set of specific O-rings on the nock. When one uses the O-ring that is larger than the size it is call for (especially on the grove where the nock allow the circuit board to clip on it), it will fail. The oversize O-ring will pinch the circuit down and disengage the clip and lock system. Upon impact, the circuit will disengage as the clip and lock system are no longer engaged. Picking and installing the right size O-ring is the key. When in doubt always use a smaller O-ring on the grove that the clip and lock system dent resides.
If one shot into very hard target, polycarbonate nock's clip and lock system can be torn due to the impact. Hard target like Spiderweb, 400fps are example of a few of the typical hard targets. To shot at those targets with Firenock, installing the optional Extreme shock battery end cap is recommended.
If you are shooting over 320/360 fps using any form of practice nock for vertical bow/crossbow, it is no longer recommended to use the match weight. It is proven that the metal plate will break out from the nock no matter how much glue you use. If you use those for hunting to have matched weight, they are OK as it will be able to manage a few shot at animal(s) before it breaks. Due to high speed, the matched weight will have enough inertia in it to cut through the locking system of the polycarbonate nock, and eventually it will break through the nock.
When crossbows are slower AND when the target is mostly layer foam, everything works. With the speed of the current archery projectiles with target like the spiderweb, Morrell 400 fps, etc. only the most seriously design system will work. Unfortunately the 2006 designed matched weight for Firenock is not one of them. The design works very well back in 2006. In the past we have tried to suggest using super glue gel to make it work, but the tests showed that it only lasted about 20 shots in double Block target and less than 5 shots into a Spiderweb target with the scorpyd RDT165 at 425fps before the matched weight flied out. That is why since June 2010 all Firenock that are meant to shot with high speed crossbows like the Scorpyd, Tac15 which uses D, J, Q, and V styles all do not come with any practice weight. It is proven that it will not work no matter what, so it is not included. It is however decided that we should left the A, C, E, F, Y, and S style nock alone as many customers are still shooting slower archery projectile with which the current matched weight still works quite effectively.
Some customers have asked with the installing of extreme shock end cap will it work? Answer is simply No; however it will help to protect the arrow if the matched weight becomes loose. This is because when the matched weight flied out, it cannot fly the entire length of the arrow and cause damage to the shaft due to it is being stopped by the end cap, but the nock was still cut/damaged.
There is no easy solution to this as long as the bow/crossbow keep getting faster and target getting harder. Before 2013, the only real way is to make matched weight that is the same shape and size of the circuit plus the battery and use an extreme shock end cap with it. The pre-2013 way of using a dead battery with Firenock or a life target system, which is designed to shut off itself in 17 seconds with both supporting by an extreme shock end cap, are the 2nd ways if you want to practice with matched weight besides actually shooting a hunting or blinking Firenock. To address this issue entirely, in 2013 Firenock offers Match Weight X pack which is a stainless piece which is identical in weight and shape of a Firenock circuit and battery, and extreme shock end caps comes standard in this package.
Below is the procedure carefully written by Harold Webster.
It appears that more and more folks are purchasing lighted nocks for their archery projectile. No matter which lighted nock that you wish to use, you must remove every single bit of the glue or the nock will not insert properly. Removing the plastic nocks from 2219 aluminum projectile is a matter of following the procedure below:
(1) Install a field tip to block the projectile front hole.
(2) Grasp the orange/black nock with a pair of pliers.
(3) Gently heat around the shaft at the end of the nock with a propane torch or on open flame stove.
(4) When the glue just begins to melt (most of the time), the pressure inside the arrow shaft will begin to slightly push the nock out.
(5) Gently, pull and twist the nock out with the pliers.
That was the easy part. The hard part is removing all the residual melted glue inside of the shaft. All brands of light nocks fit very tight inside of the arrow shaft and it is absolutely mandatory that all of the residual melted glue inside of the shaft be completely removed. To remove the residual glue, I have tried scraping, bore brushes mounted in a drill and rat-tail files; none of these methods work and you run a risk of damaging the inside of your shaft.
To absolutely remove all of the residual glue, you will need two drill bits: a 7.75 mm and a 7.8 mm and a .30 cal. bore brush.
(1) Once the nock is removed, chuck the 7.75 mm drill bit; drill in and out very slowly.
(2) Chuck the 7.8 mm drill bit; drill in and out very-very slowly. The 7.8 mm bit is the exact size of the ID of 2219 archery projectile. So, go slow and carefully.
(3) Chuck the .30 cal bore brush; drill in and out to remove any powdered glue.
For your information, I now purchase my arrows without the nocks installed and this eliminates the entire nock removal problem.
Firenock XC and XF come standard with O-rings to fit from 0.297" to 0.301". 2219's inside diameter is 0.303" which would need a thicker O-ring to pick up the slack. The O-ring needed is the same size as the "A" size O-ring for the OC O-ring pack.
In late September 2010 Firenock was informed by its customer some Barnett crossbow may not work well with Firenocks due to the ADF. After the discussion with Barnett, an extensive test done was by Barnett, the following are the outcomes. The good news is that all new Barnett bows will work with all 3 Firenock styles after the revision in last quarter of 2010.
PSE Tac nocks are glue in for a very specific reason. The shaft is a weave shaft and it gives in many ways, some gives more than others. If the nock is not glue in (like Firenock D) when there is pressure from shooting and the specific shaft gives radically (i.e., the diameter of the shaft is allow to expand) the nock can be forced into the shaft. In case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed. This situation is observed not only with Firenock D but also with factory black nock that is not glue in. Many who has seen this and was told one need to glue the nock and be done.
The gluing of the nock is not a good answer for that means one must go back to the nock that cannot lit while most PSE owner agrees that they need a lighted nock to see where the arrow goes with such a fast bow. To address this, the solution to this issue is to look at the real problem/issue here. It is not the nock that is at fault, but the shaft. Its design allow it to flex radically, so we need to control that so the shaft would not expand radically. Some research later, I believe I have the perfect fix!
The outside diameter of the Tac-15 is 0.350". Carbon express CXL™ Pro 250 's outside diameter is 0.350" and it has a BullDog™ nock collar on it. The collar hold the back end of the shaft from expanding. I believe this is the perfect answer for controlling the Tac shaft from expanding. Like all Firenock application with bull dog collar, it is imperative that one must glue the collar onto the shaft or the Firenock will be decapitated when shot into hard object due to the movement of the collar.
It is better to install the collar first if you decide to use it. The collar added a full 1 mm to the length of the shaft. If the extreme shock end cap was installed first then the bull dog collar was added later, the depth of the extreme shock end cap would be 1 mm too deep which would allow the circuit board room to move! At 405 fps impact, it can spell disaster! If you already installed the extreme shock end cap, make sure you added a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to pick up that space so NOTHING moves!
Firenock, LLC is located in Henry, IL, USA. Firenock is conceived and designed in the USA and its main components are made in the United States. Packaging and assembly are also mostly done in Henry, IL. American made components are the most costly production item that we have and they represent over 55% of what you pay for in the Firenock "GS". The mini-acceleration switch in the Firenock "G" series is custom-made in New Jersey. Other USA-made components come from factories located in California, New York, Texas, Maryland and Illinois.
The market which we live dictates that we must provide the lowest possible price; with the highest quality product to our consumers. To achieve the lowest price and still maintain the highest quality, we have our products custom-assembled and clamshell packaged in China, (poly-cell packaging is done in the USA). If our products were to be totally assembled and packaged in the USA, with components made in the US, Firenocks would have to be priced higher than the market would bear.
However, the Firenock and Lightning Nock products that you purchase on our web store are totally assembled, poly-cell packed and printed in Henry Illinois, thus by The United States of America Department of Commerce's standards, these products are qualified to be labeled as "Made in USA".
The Firenock "G" series is not just a simple wire with an LED attached, a re-assembled fishing bobber light in a nock, or some custom integrated circuit glued into a stock nock.
To make "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock", we must purchase the best materials and develop or locate the best manufacturers. We chose 0.0001 mm poly carbonate, molding steel from Germany, and the highest-quality resin force-injection to get the best light transmission and translucence properties. We have also chosen to use only optical quality poly carbonate.
For the brain and soul of a Firenock, we begin with a 2-layer circuit board; utilizing 24K gold plated connectors that are soldered at exactly 90 degrees to the board. SMT machines usually only deal with 2 axes and not 3 axes that we specify, so we developed a special process to bring you higher quality.
Next, inside every Firenock there is a custom designed acceleration switch and a Motorola (On Technology) chip set to drive the fuzzy logic circuit.
We attempted to source high-ratio Titanium alloy wire from Central Europe and failed (the US Department of Defense would not give import approval). We were able to identify a totally different alloy wire in Japan which met our exacting specifications. The wire that we chose is able to withstand the repeated shock of a 400+fps crossbow arrow shot into a 2" x 4" without a malfunction.
Firenock also designed its own battery. We custom-make an epoxy-sealed battery that has a shelf life of up to 13 months when the battery is stored at 30° F. Inside the battery is advanced chemistry that allows for a working temperature range of -17° F to 160° F.
In the case of the battery cross lock wire, we had to develop robotics that would form both a cross and a 360° backward bend. Traditional methods like manual jigs and most spring banding machines, just will not work with these close tolerances, sharp bends and thin wire. Both processes will break the 0.42 mm titanium alloy wire; so they were unacceptable. We needed a 4-axle, 2-arm system and that is the system that we now use.
The nocks alone required at least 160 engineering hours and 10 molds to perfect. Do you know how expensive a 0.001 mm precision mold is? We use a five-piece mold instead of a three-piece mold to form the two clips, the lock hole and to add a diamond pattern to the ridges. Then a 0.000,02 mm polish on the prongs gives your Firenock the cleanest release possible. If that is not enough, there are mold and cavity numbers on each nock for quality control. With all this exacting attention, a set of nocks (with as little as 0.000009" production variance) can only be achieved when cavity numbers are matched.
We at Firenock understand that this all may have sounded very scientific and technical, but without our attention to detail; how can we approach perfection? Bringing you "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock" is not an easy thing to accomplish and it's definitely not an inexpensive venture. Firenocks are simple to use and reliable because we put so much thought and effort into them and that how we ensure that the Firenock that you purchased will live up to our slogan.
After installation, it is virtually impossible to tell the difference between the two. Both use the same poly carbonate nock. The only physical differences are as follows:
The Firenock GSH is about 5 mm longer internally than the previous Firenock. This is because the Firenock GS circuit board is longer so it can accommodate the acceleration switch.
The Firenock "G" has electronic components on both sides of the circuit board. The previous Firenock reed switch was mounted on one side of the circuit board and the electronic components were mounted on the other.
The Firenock "G" uses an ultra-mini acceleration switch as compared to a reed switch in the previous models. The switch is inside of a metal canister which has weight and size issues. In order to obtain the best spin-balance performance possible, the metal canister is mounted THROUGH the circuit board. To achieve equal balance on both sides, the switch is actually mounted in a hole inside the 1 mm high-tensile-strength circuit board.
The Firenock "G" series uses a custom-designed and custom-built ultra-mini acceleration switch (UMAS). This is the smallest acceleration switch ever built commercially. The size of the switch is only 2 mm in diameter and 6 mm long. When a certain miniature size is reached, the material cost is no longer the major issue; the tooling is where the expense is now. In the case of the UMAS, the costs add up in all areas.
To make the UMAS as small as possible, we needed custom tooling that is not normally seen in the industry and which had to be developed just for us. Firenock had been quoted as much as $450,000.00 for just one part of the automation… to save $1.00 per switch on time and labor!
To make a switch that is reliable and can handle no less than 12,000,000 cycles of activation and up to 1,500G in the canister, with metal that does not corrode; there is nothing known to mankind that is better than silver or gold. Thus all Firenock UMAS are internally-plated with no less than 2µm of gold. The ball is also plated with gold and so are the spring and inside the pin. With gold prices as high as at $1,500.00 per troy oz. the expense to manufacture a lighted nock of the highest level of quality definitely adds up.
For Firenock "G", our test results showed that the new battery (new chemistry mix) will allow the light to be lit for about 24 hours and for up to 48 hours in 1-hour-burn increments. The LiMO2 CR425 pin battery has a shelf life of 13 months at best if stored at room temperature. To ensure perfect operation of Firenock/Lightning Nock a new set of batteries are recommended for every season or any major hunt. Firenock's standard battery has proven to work as low as -17F. This low temperature capability is the reason that the shelf life is that short. That's said, Firenock's standard battery due to its super volatile electro chemistry is also about 3 times more cranking amp than most standard pin size battery. The usual blast rate of a pin battery is about 50+mA while Firenock's pin 425 is as high as 163mA.
Many customers have raised concern that the standard Firenock Battery FNLN61[BR] has only about one year shelf life. Due to its short shelf life and inability to tolerate heat, as of Jan 2012, they should only be available from the month of mid July to end of December. (at this time, no supplier has met our QC so there may not be any BR for 2012) With this schedule, we can guarantee the freshness of the battery as they will be made in the first of July of that year. We can also be sure no one would have shorten the life of their battery due to placing it in high heat area. We discover that BR battery can shorten its life significantly when exposed to heat over 80F° for prolong period of time. (i.e. inside vehicle during summer) From January 2012, when anyone ordered the [BR] battery and with delivery date before a reliable shipment of [BR], [BL] battery will be shipped.
Firenock LLC also offers a longer shelf life, 36 months battery FNLN49 [BL]. With the [BL] battery, this allow us to offer you a longer shelf life, high temperature tolerance battery for your lighted nock operation. [BL] battery is offered year round as our main battery for our customer for the month of January to mid July; until the shipment of the [BR] is received for the year.
For 2012, we are offering the Ultra Long Shelf life battery FN0019 [BU]. With a rated shelf discharge rate is at 0.5% per year; it can have a theoretical shelf life of 200 years. From our experience with this battery since 1979, it has proved to be able to have ultra long shelf life. We shall guarantee it for no less than 5 years on the shelf under normal storage conditions. However it is not compatible with all Firenock as it should always be used with extreme shock end cap installed due to absent of O-ring grove for concentricity. But it can be used with Firenock style "A", as no O-ring is need in most cases.
No matter what battery you chose, if it is left installed on a Firenock system, one should not expect longer than one year of operating time as the circuit will slow drain the battery. This is due to the necessarily of it to listening for the G-switch to be fired as it is in stand-by mode. So if you know you are not going to use Firenock for a long period, take the battery off the circuit and put it back in its case; which such action, the shelf life of the battery will be maintained as it is now on the shelf, not providing power for the circuit.
Starting 2010, three tiny battery pin O-rings now come standard with all Firenock battery pack. Our experience of the epoxy seal cracking and falling off lead us to this decision. As of October 2009, the battery manufacturer declared that it was not critical for the function of the battery, thus they no longer has an epoxy seal at the base on the pin. We at Firenock feel that it is a good insurance for Firenock to function reliability to have some insulation and shock absorbing material, but agree that the epoxy seal is not the answer.
For those who are concern about the shock that their batteries are still asserting to the circuit board on batteries that they have purchased, Firenock LLC offers these O-ring as an accessory [OB]. This tiny o-ring goes between the circuit board and the battery for shock absorbing and insulation. Photo of how and where it needs to be on the battery below.
Firenock's standard battery chemistry with Firenock's fuzzy logic chipset actually is what made this phenomenon possible.
As the battery ran down to about 90%, the 3 stage fuzzy logic "sort of " shut off due to lack of power, but at this stage, it also allows the battery to air charge without draining it. When the sun goes down, the rapid drop of temperature may be enough to give the logic system enough jolt to restart the lighting process as it was never been fully shut off as it is only being drain off. This process is not magic, nor is a proof that Firenock battery can lit beyond the 24 hours of continuous burn time. This is actually a side effect of the volatility of battery's chemistry. This means, if you lose your hunting Firenock system in the field and did not find it within the first 24 hours, you still have a very good chance to find it. You just need to take advantage of a cool sunset night within 2 months of your lost. Keep in mind, based on test results, the battery is only able to air-charge up to 20%, so half an hour to 45 minutes is all you got to relocate your Firenock if the evening cool is enough to light it again.
Firenock light/long shelf battery [BL] which composed of very stable chemistry battery do not have any side effect like this. Which also explain why [BR] battery have a 24 hours continuous burn and a 48 hours 1 hours burn, while [BL] battery has an 18 hour continuous burn and 18 hours of 1 hours burn.
Unlike Firenock standard battery which has self-recharging capability; Firenock [BL] Long shelf life battery is exactly what it said it is. It has longer shelf life than the Firenock [BR] standard battery. When any Firenock battery is installed into a Firenock system, some energy will be used, thus a slow drain to the battery is what will happen when it is installed into a Firenock system. Based on different design and function of the circuit, some drain more than others. Firenock blinking system uses the most, then the Target system as both has digital counter and it is always on. A general rule is that no matter what type of Firenock battery one uses, it is good for about one year after installation. For long term storage, in case of the Firenock [BL] battery, remove it from Firenock system and put it back in the carrying case it comes with and store in the refrigerator for up to expiration date for best result.
For Firenock manufactured before 2011, Firenock's core system is a set of Motorola fuzzy logic chip sets. If the battery is installed in the nock the system; the high power X-ray used in airports to scan luggage can cause the system to get confused or damaged. To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when doing air travel.
In the situation that one forgot to remove the battery during air travel, remove the battery as soon as possible after the flight. Let the nock sitting still without the battery for a few minutes, reinstall the battery and test the system no less than 3 times to make sure all is working properly. If the nock still turns on by itself after the reset, the logic circuits are damaged and need to be replaced. If the nock is purchased within 30 days, exchange will still be valid. More than 30 days, one can use our refresh service and get a new set of Firenock at a deep discount price.
From 2011, Firenock Hunting circuit utilizes IC system instead of MOSDET chip set, with Electro Magnetic Shield material coving the IC. Thus it is no longer critical to remove the battery before flight. It is however a great practice of checking your Firenock after flight as baggage handler may have switched them on.
Some customers have notified me that their Firenocks have not performed well in a rain storm. After Firenocks were submerged in water that contained a touch of salt, we confirmed that they were correct. When 36 samples were submerged in the salt water, with or without the housing, within about 30 seconds 1 out of every 6 were activated and 30 minutes later, 21 of them were activated. Right out of the water, some would not even work or turn on very easily. However, after they were immediately air dried, they all can functioned correctly. Based on this evidence, we concluded that the titanium wire and the gold plated connectors had done their jobs. We suspect that the new ultra light epoxy may not be as water resistant as the epoxy that we used last year. So water proofing of the entire electronic system is the key.
When we soaked samples for over a day inside of damp paper towels, nearly all samples were dead overnight.
For Firenock made on or before 2008, the immediate fix is to smear some bow wax around the neck of the Firenock, so it will form a wax seal. Due to its ultra high ridges, this is also true for the Firenock "E" series. Due to its thin tube and end ridges, a smear of wax is even more critical for "A" series nocks. Since "S" series nocks have a compression fitting at the end, using a little bow wax is a good way to insure that water does not enter the circuitry.
For 2009 or later Firenocks, we have sourced for new UV cure epoxy glue. This UV cure epoxy glue will provide much better waterproofing protection. This glue is 26,000% more water resistant than that we used in 2008. To totally eliminate the potential problem of oxidation and water damage on the titanium battery wire connector, we will also plated the wire with 24K gold.
Most Firenock are perfect fit inside the shaft, if this happens besidse the "A" nock, you may have the wrong style nock for your arrow/bolt.
If that happens, the simple way to remove the nock is to use a set of pliers. There is a high probability that you will damage the nock. If the nock is damaged, you will only need to insert the circuit board into another nock after you remove it from the shaft. It is only recommended that a small amount of bow string wax or vegetable oil be applied to the nock before insertion if the nock felt exceptional tight only if it is a Firenock "A" nock.
You can be assured we continuously strive to improve the design and the manufacturing process of Firenock. The current Firenock "G" series represents the pinnacle of the design that we have come up with to date, but we will not rest on our laurels!
The Firenock "G" series is a premium and state of the art product. We use the best technology and the most reliable components to build Firenocks. In the Firenock "G" series, there is so much gold, silver, titanium, and precision tooling involved that it just cannot be sold at a lower price. With that said, we did offer the Lightning Nock "G" series for the budget-minded archer till 2012 as our customer has voted with their wallet, they do not need Lighted nock as its just do not sell for the last 5 years and thus discontinued.
Like all electronics, poor battery connection is the number one cause for failure to activate. First check to make sure that the first cross-lock of the battery wire connector is seated tightly at the neck groove of the battery (refer to the diagram in the installation manual on the installation page for more details). Also make sure the cross-lock battery wire connector is not touching the center battery pin. If it has been touching for an extended period of time, the battery may have already been shorted out and a new battery is required.
If the nock is within the warranty period, please call us for advice or send it back for evaluation.
If everything is installed properly, it is physically impossible for Firenock to shut off in mid air or upon impact. Firenock is not a mechanical switch system but driven by a fuzzy logic system; unless the circuit board was physically broken, Firenock cannot be shut off in mid air or upon impact. With that understanding, it becomes quite easy to understand the issue is not the circuit, but the delivery of electric power to sustain the system. Like all electronics, the continuous supply of power is what keeps everything going. Any disruption of the flow of electricity will cause the system to shut off, as the system will treat it as a reset.
All Firenock LLC manufactured lighted nocks since v1.5 to current use the same battery retention system design. The International Patented, and US Patent Pending battery wire connector is not just the battery holder, but also the positive battery connector to the pin battery which powers the system. If the battery was not installed properly, the system will not function as designed. As of 2010 to further enhance the reliability of the battery retention system, we have eliminated the epoxy seal on the battery and go with an O-ring shock absorbing/insulation system. Thus the only way to prevent mid air shut off, shut off upon impact, or any other undesirable effect that caused by improper battery installation is to ensure that the battery is installed properly.
If the battery O-ring was not installed for any battery that do not have an epoxy seal, the casing of the battery (positive) can contact with the gold negative pin connector on the circuit board on impact and cause shorting of the entire system. Directly below are pictures of Firenock standard battery [BR] with and without epoxy seal and both with no battery-pin-O-ring installed. The battery wire were correctly installed in both pictures. Please note the gap between the battery head and the negative pin connector when there epoxy seal AND battery-pin-O-ring were both absent, which can be one of the causes of the issue.
The picture is what a typical bad battery installation with battery-pin-O-ring installed. Please take notice of the cross-lock wire first loop is over the head of the battery instead of a cross forming inside the neck of the battery.
If the battery wire is as picture above, the following issue(s) may occur:
After the brand new battery is installed, the lighted nock light will lit once and go dim after the first shot. This is due to the wire connector making contact with the center pin of the battery and be drained/shorted as the battery move inside the shaft as it is being shot.
The lighted nock glows very dim and the battery is dead in a day or two only after a few shots. This is due to the wire connector had contacted with the center pin a few times and the battery was shorted and it could no longer sustain a continuous power output.
The lighted nock shut off in mid air and/or upon impact. This is due to the battery is not securely locked in. As the arrow flew towards the target, the battery vibrates, the connection between the wire and the power was cut. This causes the system resets and the light goes off.
The battery dislodged from the battery retention system and fly forward and be smashed into the insert of the arrow and be deformed. As the battery cannot be not held securely by the cross-lock wire upon impact the force of the impact can dislodge the battery.
Therefore the only way to assure that your Firenocks work as intented is to make sure the battery-pin-O-ring is installed and the cross lock wire after installation looked exactly like the picture below after the battery was installed.
In situation after changing the battery, the perfectly working Firenock still has similar behavior as above and the cross-lock was also installed perfectly, you can be sure that the issue is in the C-clip (the 2nd part of the battery connector). When one changes the battery, it is not unusual that the C-clip can be over stretched. The C-Clip is the primary contact to the positive end of the battery; the front cross-lock loop primary function is battery retention. When the C-clip was over stretched, it will not form a perfect connection/grip with the battery. The simple fix is to remove the battery, compress the C-clip with your finger, so it will form tighter hold onto the battery.
When one uses the Firenock Long Life [BL] which come standard on all single pack lighted nock, combined with some of the 2009 production Firenocks connector gold plated wires which battery wire is a little lose will also have shut off on impact issues. This is because the shorter length of the battery pin of the [BL] combined with the looseness of the wire; actually allow the the battery to move forward enough that the battery pin actually totally disengage from the negative pin connector on impact. There are three ways to resolve this issue.
Send you Firenock and battery in and we give you the latest one has a tighter wire.
Use Standard Firenock battery only for those which the wire is a too loose
Install Extreme Shock End cap so the battery will no longer able to move; this is the recommended approach from Firenock LLC.
Last, there can be a faulty battery, too. The usual symptom of a bad battery is that upon activation, the lighted nock will give out a bright glow then dims to shut off within a few seconds. By changing the batteries (a known working one) you will know if it is a battery issue. If it is indeed a bad battery situation and the battery is newly purchased, please send it back for replacement.
In extremes of temperature or humidity, a Firenock may require up to 8 seconds for the system to reset before it can be deactivated. In addition, Firenocks have a built-in motion sensor for ultimate shut-off protection. A Firenock will remain lit when it encounters shock and motion within the first 4-8 seconds after it has been activated.
In case of non-red color hunting Firenock, they all use a different circuit from the basic red LED circuit. Their drawing power are significantly different. Since the logic gates variance will be too low to be recognized whenever the power is low and be considered inconsistent, it is designed so it will not allow itself to be turned on whenever the power of the battery drops below 30% of its total capacity or the voltage drops below 2.7 volts. The Firenock is still good to use, just that one can no longer drop the arrow on the nock to shut the nock off. It is part of the non-red color circuit design. A new battery is all it takes to solve this situation.
If the LED does not turn off after you follow the manual shut-off instructions and the lighted nock is within the warranty period, please call for technical advice or send it back to Firenock for evaluation. In case of any target circuit, if it does not shut off by itself 20 seconds after activation, and the lighted nock is within the warranty period, send it back to Firenock for evaluation.
There are several reasons why there might be a rattling sound when you shake the nock:
Firenock's core sensor is a G switch, it is a canister and ball design. The easiest way to see if what you hear is just the G switch is to remove the battery and the O-ring(s) , reinstall the nock and circuit alone into the projectile. If the sound your heard persist, you are actually hearing the switch and the ball system in action. When you shake the projectile, the ball of the acceleration switch will rock inside the metal canister; as it is inside a carbon tube which now behave like a amplifier. There is no way to eliminate that noise, as it is part of the design. After 2009: the 0.15mm gap between the circuit and the nock is eliminated and -0.02mm has been added to make sure that there will be no space for the circuit to rattle. Before 2009:
there are 3 main reasons that may cause sound in a Firenock.
1) There may be a 0.15 mm gap between some older Firenock/Lightning Nock LEDs and the poly carbonate nock. Spread a thin layer of Vaseline or silicon gel on the LED and re-insert it back in the poly carbonate nock. The gel should take up the space and stop the rattling.
2) After shooting into a hard object, the circuit board clip and lock may expand the holes on the sides on the poly carbonate nock. Nock locking holes can be damaged and this will allow the circuit board room to move inside of the nock. These enlarged locking holes will exaggerate the effect of any gap as in Item 1 above. Replacing the poly carbonate nock should resolve the issue.
3) Some Firenocks come with several sizes of O-rings. Installing the incorrect O- rings will allow the battery to knock against the inner wall of the arrow shaft. Lightning Nocks (prior to the release of "LG") required the optional rubber band to stop the knocking sound. This rubber band is now standard-issue with the Lightning Nock "LG" series. The Firenock style [S] O-ring will work on the Lightning Nock "LG" series and they can be purchased on Firenock web site as an accessory.
Firenock style "A" is the tightest fit of all 11 styles of Firenock. It is due to the small size of the 0.202" arrow size. Without being as tight as it needed to be, there will not be enough pressure to hold the nock in. Not to mention that there is also not much room for anything. Firenock "A" style is also the only style of Firenock that lubricating the nock is a must for easy and successfully installation. Firenock "A" style has an O-ring that is meant to be a one time use. The O-ring in style "A" is meant to be deformed to provide extra binding effect with the internal wall of the shaft. This is why "A" style is one of the strongest designs while being the lightest due to size.
Due to the unique design of Firenock "A" it is the only Firenock that one should not do a normal single direction rotate and pull method to remove the nock from the shaft for battery change or nock replacement. When one tried to remove the nock, twisting it like one usually does with other nocks may cause the end loop to break, and may break the O-ring during the process too. One should jiggle the nock back-and-forth. Thus Firenock suggests not to twist the nock, but rather (with non-teeth/flat pliers i.e. nock may need to be replaced) just move it back and forth, with the main effort focused on pulling the Firenock straight out of the shaft. If the O-ring is left in the arrow shaft, one should be able to turn the shaft upside down and shake the O-ring out.
O-ring and nock may need to be replaced whenever the nock is removed from the shaft.
Firenock uses a battery that has an aluminum shell which is the positive end of the battery. The battery wire connector needs to make constant contact with the shell in order to keep the system operating properly. What you observed can happen in cases when the battery is not installed properly, as in:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the shell of the battery during installation
2) The "C" lock at the end of battery wire connector is bent open, leaving it too loose
3) The battery wire is not cross-locked properly
4) The battery Pin O-ring is not installed and the shell is making contact with the pin connector on impact
In situations 1-3 all involve the battery wire connector not making full contact with the battery. There is an easy fix. Remove the battery, wipe it clean, and reinstall it. In situation (2), press the "C" clip a bit closer with your fingers so that it grips the battery tighter. Then all should be fine again.
In situation 4, it used to be replacing a new battery is the only way to fix the issue. As of December 2010, all Firenock battery do not comes with an epoxy seal, as we have concluded that the epoxy seal can break thus can short with the pin connector on the circuit board with the battery casing. As the epoxy seal from the battery factory as an insulator is not ideal, we now have source a new mini o-ring to replace the epoxy seal and it is included in every battery pack. Make sure you thread the mini-O-ring on the pin of the battery to ensure no shorting from the battery case to the battery Pin-connector.
If the nock still does not function properly after this repair and it is within the warranty period, please call for advice or send it back to Firenock for inspection and/or replacement.
When one install a Firenock in an archery projectile that contains a weight tube, it is advice to cut the weight tube equal to the space between base of the nock (without the circuit ) and the insert in case of Firenock style C, E, F, S, V and Y.(i.e. the weight tube need to cover and be over the circuit of the Firenock system). This approach allow the weigh tube to touch the nock and ride over the Firenock circuit and battery. When one cut the weight tube to make room for the Firenock circuit and O-ring, the room which allow for the weight tube to move will actually damage the Firenock circuit. This is because when the projectile hits the target, the forward motion and impact may cause the weight tube to move backward and forward. This hammer-like action can do permanent damage to Firenock circuit board.
In case of Firenock style A, since there is technically no room between the circuit and inside diameter of the nock, weight tube is not recommend to be use in those arrow without the use of Extreme Shock Battery End Cap [XA].
The Extreme Shock Battery End Cap acts as a protector for the circuit from the impact and trashing of the weight tube upon impact. Therefore, there is no longer any issue of using a weight tube with any 7 styles of Firenock system equipped projectile with associated Extreme Shock Battery End Cap installed.
Of course, you can send it in. If is determined that it slipped by our QC process, it will be replaced. Or, you can see if you can make it work again yourself.
"A" style lighted nocks made by Firenock are the only style that may face this issue; even if the circuit is totally functional. The issue here is the size and how "A" styles must be made in order to be able to be installed inside the "Axis" style slim diameter arrows. Both sides of the circuit board of "A" style circuit boards can possibly touch the inside walls of the arrow. Although extreme care is taken when "A" style circuits are made, even though they are also coated with a very thin epoxy coat for added protection, things do happen. Once in a while the solder on the negative pin connector may be a little thicker/higher than what it should be. This lump/point of solder may contact the side wall of the arrow and it may short circuit the battery. This short circuit will cause the nock to fail to activate. To determine if this solder is causing the problem, remove the lighted nock from the arrow shaft; drop it (nock-down) on the counter top. If the nock turns on, then you need to use a razor blade and shave off the excess solder on the connector side/negative side of the circuit board (the wire side is the positive end of the circuit). Blow off all solder shavings from the circuit board and apply a coating of nail polish to the shaved area.
CX bulldog collars must be GLUED to the shaft in order not to damage Firenock/Lightning Nocks. When an extreme impact occurs, such as when the arrow hits a solid object like heavy bone, a rock, hardwood, video screen, etc., the Firenock/Lightning Nock may be damaged beyond repair. The Firenock compression system will prevent most damage that is caused by sudden impact and will probably prevent the nock from blowing out. But, when the bulldog collar is present; a whole new dynamic happens.
The bulldog collar has a higher density and it will try to move backwards against the poly carbonate nock. It is not difficult to imagine that the Firenock poly carbonate nock is on the losing end every time. The looser the bull dog collar is the more damage that is done to the nock. To make matters worst, whenever the nock breaks, the LED will probably also be broken.
When your Firenock polycarbonate nock crack, there are usually one of the 3 reasons below:
Firenock uses the best polycarbonate material and best engineering effort when the nocks were made. During manufacturing process, tiny bubbles do can occur and even with the best effort some do escape our QC process. When this occurs, a weak spot on the nock is created. When bend at the nock prongs, that tiny bubble will lead to a crack on the nock, just like a stone chip on wind shield, the nock prong will break off easily. Is that is what happens, please send back the nock (just the polycarbonate part) and a new set will be on its way back to you.
Some bow string have very thick serving, which is way thicker than than 0.12"/3.05 mm which 0.11"(2.8mm) is the norm. For your information, Firenock's throat is exactly 0.11"(2.800 mm) which is what is consider the most ideal size for using Firenock. When Se river diameter exceed 0.12"/0.305 mm, the nock is way over stretched and cannot perform as designed. There are only 2 known ways we know to resolve this issue.
change the serving on the string to a thinner one
change the bow string with a thinner serving
If both methods above are not an option, please return your Firenock to where you had purchased it for a full refund within 30 days of purchase.
In case of older bow strings which may have uneven serving; those bumps and groves will mar the inside of a Firenock polycarbonate nock. This is especially true on strings that rotate when shot (i.e. if your peep sight need a rubber band to align itself, your string rotates when shot). This mar on the nock will cause the beginning point of a total nock failure (i.e. a nock prong may break off when shot from a bow). The only solution to this issue is a new serving or a high quality sting that does not have the above issue. A sample of a good quality strings are (Pro string, Fury X, Winners Choice)
In mid-August 2007, Firenock, LLC and Dorge Huang were sued by Easton Technical Products (the maker of Easton arrows, Hoyt bows, Reflex bows, Fuse accessories, etc.). On March 4, 2008 a Consent Judgment and Permanent Injunction was signed by Utah Federal Judge Ted Steward. This consent order decided that no magnet-activated lighted nocks of Firenock, LLC could be sold in the US. This applies only to Firenock v2.0 and products related to that series. The consent order does not have any effect on our current technology.
On January 10, 2008, Firenock, LLC introduced the new Firenock "G" series to the world at the Archery Trade Association show in Indianapolis. This new Firenock uses a mini "G" switch (based on acceleration) instead of a reed switch (which is responsive to a magnet field). Being forced to change our design could have been a disaster for another company. But instead, it has resulted in an even more technologically advanced and more dependable lighted nock. We are now moving full-steam-ahead and producing what is truly "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock".
The Firenock "G" series uses the same poly carbonate nocks, O-rings and batteries as for the older magnetic activated Firenock. Current Firenock parts are 100% compatible with previous Firenock models of the same type and the parts are interchangeable within types.
When one shoots a Firenock into a Spider web target, most broad-head targets, a Techno Hunt screen, any target that will force the arrow to do a dead stop, or used for small game hunting; the circuit will separate from the nock after a few shots. The current design of the Firenock/Lightning Nock is not meant to deal with "Dead-Stop" impacts. The nock is doing all the work in holding the circuit and battery in place, thus a slow stop target or actual hunting situation is what it is designed for. Firenock/Lightning Nock's are designed to give when extreme shock is applied to the system. The nock and battery are both field replaceable and it is a lot cheaper to replace a torn nock and/or a battery than breaking the expensive circuit as it may get damaged while absorbing all the shock.
One can glue the circuit to the nock so it will not become an issue, for a while. With that approach, one looses the flexibility of field changeability of the nock and the battery wire will become the weakest link of the system. The fact remains, it will eventually fail if one decides to continuously use those targets. Firenock does make an accessory to address this issue.
We also notice that the bows are getting much faster, and the targets are getting harder to stop the arrows they release. Based on our testing, any bow/crossbow that can shoot arrows/bolts at over 300/350 FPS, the extreme battery end cap becomes necessary due to the fact that there is just so much force needed to be dealt with. There will be 6 offerings of Extreme Shock Battery End Cap (ESBEC) for Firenock "A", "E" ,"C", "F/V", "S" and "Y" styles nocks. The 2006 "XE" will be changed to "XS" to reflect the different sizes to fit all 7 styles of nocks. "XA", "XE", "XC", "XF", "XS" and "XY" for "A", "E", "C", "F/V", "S" and "Y" style respectively.
To achieve ultimate flexibility, light weight and low cost, Firenock/Lightning Nock comes with the minimum of what one needs to use in a lighted nock in most common hunting situation. Firenock/Lightning Nock allows one to easily field change the nock with our International patented clip and lock system. In order to achieve the above, the ESBEC is only offered as an optional accessory which one can purchase if the extra durability is needed instead of a cost that must be added to the casual archer.
2013 we offer the extreme match weight pack that not only match the weight of the circuit and battery, but also the shape. To address the continuous increase of speed of the ultra fast high speed bow/crossbow, the 2013 extreme match weight can handle the ultra high speed impact into the target like spiderweb with no issue. The legacy match weight were also remove in some of our high speed nock pack offering to eliminate issue that may arise when used. The 2013 Match Weight Extreme Pack offer are P0x, PCx, PDx, PFx, PJx, PSx, PVx, PQx, and PYx.
If you will be using your Firenock for video dart shooting or to shoot at hard surfaces like concrete blocks, the end-caps are a must. From testing, we concluded that it is absolutely necessary for video screen-shooting if you want your Firenock to survive. This activity is one of the most punishing activities that you can do to a lighted nock of this design. The constant pounding of the arrow into the screen and the arrow dropping to the floor will damage the poly carbonate nock, circuit board, and battery eventually. If you enjoy these archery activities, you must use the end caps. From our field tests, the Firenock "G" system will not fail when the end caps are installed. The "G" system will survive a few dart league sessions.
If you are a target shooter or shoot a lot at non layer based targets, the end-cap would be a really good idea as standard equipment when you use Firenocks. This accessory totally eliminates the stress that is put on the nock during impact. This also perfectly holds the battery in its place as it has a built in battery holder. Last, one can recover the ESBEC and install it into another arrow. The end-caps are made of heavy anodized aircraft grade aluminum. All one needs is a new O-ring after recovering it from the old arrow in order to install it into a new arrow.
Due to continuous increase of bow/crossbow speed, as of 2013 many of the Firenock pack come standard with extreme shock end cap to address this issue and make purchasing decision simpler and easier.
Firenock ESBEC uses O-ring as a squeegee towards the glue, so there should be no noticeable glue left on the shaft where the Firenock makes contact after the ESBEC was being push down into the shaft. This however is not going to work as intended if the field point or broad head was still present on the shaft. The air trapped on the front of the shaft is what is causing this issue; back pressure form the trapped air. In most cases, you may not even be able to push the ESBEC with the tool to start with; but if one push hard enough it can be done. There is no real solution to this after it is being done; therefore please remove the field point or broad head before installing the ESBEC as instructed in the manual on line one(1).
It is true that with (ESBEC) installed, it is technically impossible for your Firenock to go off on impact. With the support of the battery, even with extreme force the impact the connecting of battery and circuit should be perfect under all conditions. But improper gluing can lead to malfunction, below is how...
For those who had used gel type super glue (Ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (C6H7NO2) or methyl 2-cyanoacrylate (C5H5NO2), aka, Goat tough, Bondini, Super Glue Gel, etc.) to glue the end caps please make sure the glue is absolutely totally dried before you insert the Firenock into the shaft. If the glue is not totally dry, the vapor of the super glue which will given out in the process of the Gel drying will react with the outside shell of the battery and form a thin white powder film on the battery. This glue vapor (acrylate) will also form film on anything and everything that it contacts, including the gold plated connector. The film is not conductive, and thus renders the Firenock to function unreliably as the battery shell is now no longer conductive.
Scraping the film off seems to work, but that is just way too much work. Wiping it with hand only make it worst as now oil and film mix together and form a thicker layer of insulator. In cases that a TON of super glue is used, when even the gold plated wire is showing white powder on it, the circuit would also have to be replaced as the gold wire is also coated with the acrylate and no longer can conduct electricity. If that happens to your Firenock and it is within 30 days of your purchase, I am willing to exchange your battery and circuit for new ones ONCE; so you can have a perfect reliable firenock to use for this season. For those who prefer not to wait, one just need to tape over the battery and the connectors with thin tape after the battery is installed. The tape prevents any deposit of acrylate on all the conductive parts.
Firenock GS's circuit board is 5 mm longer than that of the previous Firenock. Thus you need a 40 mm-long nylon insertion tool instead of the 35mm version you had with the previous model. Other than that they are technically identical, but the previous Extreme Shock Battery End Cap (Part #FNLN93) is no longer sold in the US. The new ESBEC "XS" is available now (Part #FNLN64), and is specially-made to work with Firenock/Lightning Nock "S" style lighted nocks.
There are a total of 6 tools in the entire Firenock line from the 2006 v1.0s to the current G series. Due to arrow sizes, there are 2 major groups of tools. The A and E style Firenock due to its slim size comes with one tool which is made of Aluminum and it had a 2 mm thread at the tip. All other Firenock styles uses the 5 mm thread tools and they are made of nylon. The only difference is that that they are of different lengths due to depth of each nock style inside the arrow:
the old v2.0s uses a 35 mm long tool, nylon
the "S" style (XS:FNLN64) uses a 40 mm long tool, nylon
the "C" style (XC:FNLN90) uses a 50 mm long tool, nylon
the "D/F/V" style (XF:FNLN92) uses a 48 mm long tool, Declaring
the "Y" style (XY:FNLN91) uses a 45 mm long tool, metal
There are a total of 4 actual end caps in the entire Firenock line from the 2008 v2.0s to the current 7 styles of G series Firenocks. For ease of identification, they are anodized in 4 different colors,: Black, Pink, Gold and Green
Old magnetic v2.0s Firenock - black
The A style Firenock - pink
The C style Firenock - gold
The D style Firenock - gold
The E style Firenock - pink
The F style Firenock - gold
The S style Firenock - black
The V style Firenock - gold
The Y style Firenock - green
There are a total of 4 different end caps to fit the 7 styles of Firenock.
The A style Firenock - ~1.75 grains in pink;
The C style Firenock - ~2.2 grains in gold
The D style Firenock - ~2.2 grains in gold
The E style Firenock - ~1.75 grains in pink
The F style Firenock - ~2.2 grains in gold
The S style Firenock - ~2.0 grains in black
The V style Firenock - ~2,2 grains in gold
The Y style Firenock - ~1.5 grains in green
Within the warranty period as stated on the package, please visit warranty for more detail. If your product warranty has expired, you have the option with our refresh and update services which are only available in the United States.
The answer is yes, but it will take some work as the FOB has a lip that goes right between the Nock neck and the shaft which this causes FOB not able to be used with most lighted nock. Below is the procedure:
Shave off a tiny edge from the back of the shaft! A pencil sharpener will do the job. This is to create a groove between the nock and the shaft. To square it again, recommended to use Firenock APS to make it even after the sharpening.
Drill the FOB lip hole with a 9/16 drill bit. If possible use a drill press so you can leave as little material as possible as you are only trying to make a TINY LIP for the FOB to ride onto. This would allow 0.055-0.065" of material on the lip of the FOB.
Install Firenock into the arrow as normal. Slide the modified FOB form the back over the nock. It will go over the Firenock and the new TINY LIP will now rest over that groove between the nock and the shaft. When one shot into an animal, the FOB will move backwards and over the Firenock without needing to pop out. So Firenock will not be destroyed when the FOB pops out. This work quite well for those who would like to use FOB with a Firenock.
The only size had been tried was the standard 0.244-0.246" shaft or the Firenock "S" style. It was not as easy as it sounded; but for those who wanted to use a Firenock with an FOB, this way works. In case the FOB is little bit too loose, a layer of thin tape over the end of the arrow MAY save the day. Be prepared to over drill the FOB as it is sort of tricky. No one is saying that this is easy, but if it is done properly and carefully it can be done.
PSE Tac nocks are glue in for a very specific reason. The shaft is a weave shaft and it gives in many ways, some gives more than others. If the nock is not glue in (like Firenock D) when there is pressure from shooting and the specific shaft gives radically (i.e., the diameter of the shaft is allow to expand) the nock can be forced into the shaft. In case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed. This situation is observed not only with Firenock D but also with factory black nock that is not glue in; especially the Tac shafts that were made in 2010. Many who has seen this and was told one need to glue the nock and be done.
The gluing of the nock is not a good answer for that means one must go back to the nock that cannot lit while most PSE owner agrees that they need a lighted nock to see where the arrow goes with such a fast bow. To address this, the solution to this issue is to look at the real problem/issue here. It is not the nock that is at fault, but the shaft. Its design allow it to flex radically, so we need to control that so the shaft would not expand radically. Some research later, we believe there is a perfect fix!
The outside diameter of the Tac-15 is 0.350". Carbon express CXL™ Pro 250 's outside diameter is 0.350" and it has a Bull Dog™ nock collar on it. The collar hold the back end of the shaft from expanding . I believe this is the perfect answer for controlling the Tac shaft from expanding. Like all Firenock application with bull dog collar, it is imperative that one must glue the collar onto the shaft or the Firenock will be decapitated when shot into hard object due to the movement of the collar.
It is not critical to install the BullDog collar first, even the collar will add a full 1 mm to the length of the shaft. If the extreme shock end cap was installed first then the bull dog collar was added later, the depth of the extreme shock end cap could be 1 mm too deep which would allow the circuit board room to move. You should leave that alone as for now. If you already installed the extreme shock end cap and is concerned about the matter; you can added a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to pick up that space so NOTHING moves! It is also known that in some case due to the fact that the CXL is much thinner wall shaft compare to the Tac arrow, it is possible that he D nock will push aside the top of the bulldog collar and reseat itself on the D arrow. It is totally normal as the top of the bulldog collar is really thin. Therefore it is critical that the back of your Tac shaft be totally straight, before you do install a Firenock D on it; WITH or WITHOUT a bull dog collar. Below are picture of Firenock being push into a Tac shaft, and a bulldog collar being expanded but totally fine shooting with a Firenock D.
Please make sure your bolt is the latest from the production as they do feel tighter with Firenock D than what was seen at 2010. If you remotely feel that the nock is not tight on the shaft, using the Carbon Express CXL Bull Dog collar as discuss above. Installing the BullDog collar on the back of the shaft will guarantee to eliminate the possibility of the nock being push into the shaft issue. Please be careful and take all precaution. Please also note that if the nock is not totally seated flush with the shaft this can also happen. After discussion with PSE regional manager, it is confirm that he is able to reproduce this when the Firenock D is not totally sit flush on the shaft. i.e. a little gap between the nock and the shaft will also cause as picture below!
Please note how the BullDog collar expand after a few shots, but it is totally fine after Firenock D reseats itself as the BullDog collar is preventing the nock from pushing into the shaft!
Firenock make a collection of nocks that is meant to clip on string with serving and engage the anti-dry-fire system (except V style) from 0.120" - 0.1675", which all of them will fit the 0.300" internal diameter arrow like the Tac, GoldTip Laser II, Laser II Pro, Laser III, Harvest Time HS-X, Victory, and most Easton carbon crossbow shaft.
Firenock V - to fit serving size of 0.115" - 0.125" (In-line)
Firenock Q - to fit serving size of 0.135" - 0.145" (Scorpyd, Parker)
Firenock J - to fit serving size of 0.145" - 0.165" (Barnett)
Firenock D - to fit serving size of 0.155" - 0.165" (PSE-Tac)
Firenock Aerobolt 2 is indeed designed with the Tac arrow in mind as it comes in 26". The Tac 15 arrow has an internal diameter of 0.298" and the Aerobolt 2 has an internal diameter of 0.300". Since most Tac owner may want to use the D nock on their PSE Tac arrows, the nock will feel super tight on them, but when it is inserted into the Aerobolt 2, it may feel a little lose due to the larger ID of Aerobolt 2. You can use a tiny drop of super glue to secure the nock if you feel it is too loose inside the AeroBolt 2. Use just enough to hold the nock in, but not so much you cannot use force to break it free when you want to change the battery or the nock.
Firenock V, Q, J, although looks like the D style nock, they are all design to fit the 0.300" internal ID shaft with just above finger tightness.