The Firenock lighted nock system is available in three different light functions: Hunting (H), Target (T), and Intermittent(I). The Hunting (H) circuits will remain lit until the battery runs out or is manually switched off. The Target (T) circuits will turn off automatically after 17 seconds. The Intermittent (I) circuits will remain lit for 6 seconds and will then blink until the battery runs out or is manually switched off.
For more details on the Firenock lighted nock system, our "G" series, and how it compares to other brands of lighted nocks, please refer to the table below.
Accidental Activation and/or Deactivation
No (Firenock is de/activated by specific changes in G-force thus Firenock will only be lit, remain lit, and be turned off by intentional actions)
Yes (With physical switches; vulnerable when pushing in and pulling out)
Yes (With magnetic systems; vulnerable to magnetic fields and X-ray scanners)
Requires an Actuator
No (Firenock automatically activates with specific changes in G-force)
Yes (Magnetic systems require a magnet)
Working Temperature Range
Hunting (H): -55° F to 180° F
Target (T): 32° F to 140° F
Vulnerability to Magnetic Fields
No (Firenock only activates due to changes in G-force)
Yes (Magnetic systems require a magnet, thus magnetic fields and X-ray scanners influence their IC)
Lasts for years plus lifetime refresh warranty
Lasts for one season or less
Durability to Impact with Hard Surfaces
Yes (With Extreme Shot End Cap installed)
Spin-balanced / Rattle-proof
Yes (With the Extreme Shock End Cap installed)
Yes (Replacement nock packs available for all 14 styles)
GA, GE, GF and GS are now referred to A3h-R, E3h-R, F3h-R and S3h-R (the first character defines nock style, the second character defines circuit quantity, the third character defines circuit function, and the fourth character defines circuit color).
h = Hunting
t = Target
ht = Hunting & Target
i = Intermittent
B = Blue
G = Green
R = Red
BR, BL, BU
B = Battery
R = Regular shelf life
L = Long shelf life
U = Ultra-long shelf life
Extreme Shock End Caps
XA, XE, XF, XG, XS, XY
X = Extreme Shock End Cap
A = "A" nock
E = "E" nock
F = "C/D/D2/F/J/M/Q/U/V" nocks
G = "G" nock
S = "S" nock
Y = "Y" nock
HB, HC, HG, HO, HR, HY
TB, TC, TG, TO, TR, TY
IB, IC, IG, IO, IR, IY
NB, NC, NG, NO, NR, NY
KB, KC, KG, KO, KR, KY
ZB, ZC, ZG, ZO, ZR, ZY
0B, 0C, 0G, 0O, 0R, 0Y
Fit standard size: C, D, D2, F, J, M, Q, S, U, V, & Y style
H = Hunting
T = Target
I = Intermittent
Fit slim size: A & E style
N = Hunting
K = Target
Fit ultra slim size: G Style
Z = Hunting
0 = Target
B = Blue
C = Clear
G = Green
O = Orange
R = Red
Y = Yellow
1. Wait at least 4-8 seconds after activation before trying to deactivate the system.
2. Lift the arrow (nock end down) no less than 8 inches (20 cm) above a semi-hard flat surface.
3. Drop the arrow (nock end down) onto the surface via gravitational force.
Upon impact, the Firenock will deactivate automatically. If the lighted nock does not deactivate, repeat steps 2 & 3 and increase the distance by two inch (5 cm) increments until the unit deactivates.
Note: A pine block, the top of your boots, or the floor inside your truck are good examples of semi-hard surfaces. If the Firenock does not shut off after a free-fall distance that is as high as 12" (30 cm), please return your Firenock for warranty replacement.
To install the battery, DO NOT use your fingernail to force the cross-lock wire into the neck of the battery as injuries may occur while doing this. Instead, after inserting the battery into the pin connector and making sure the cross-loop is just over the neck, ROTATE the battery counter-clockwise. This will set the cross-lock wire down into the notch on the battery neck smoothly. Lastly, flip the C-lock wire end over the battery and the battery installation is complete. See the video below for more in-depth instructions.
* Note that the C-lock wire end should go around the battery slightly in FRONT of the O-ring grove located near the end of the battery.
To remove the battery, flip up the C-lock wire end and then rotate the battery clockwise. The cross-lock wire will open wide and the battery can be easily removed with a straight pull.
We recommend the use of a battery tester. Unlike a volt meter, which only shows the battery's voltage output, a battery tester shows the true remaining power within a battery. For Firenock batteries, even when they are 90% drained, the volt meter may still show that it is 3.0v. We recommend GB Instruments™ GBT-500A Battery Tester which can be purchased from www.amazon.com and at most local hardware stores (ACE Hardware, Menards) for about US$10.00. To test a Firenock battery with this battery tester, set the dial to "LITHIUM 3V", use the red probe (positive) to the shell of the battery and the black probe (negative) to the pin of the battery.
Though the 435 sized battery lasts longer, it is about 50% heavier than the 425 sized battery. With the Firenock lighted nock system lasting at a minimum of three weeks with the use of the 425 size battery, we found that there is no need to upset the FOC with the 435 sized battery.
Our BR battery only has about 8 to 12 months of shelf life. It is meant for one season of use, therefore there is no need to store and then re-use the BR battery. After one season, please remove the BR battery from your arrow shaft and Firenock circuit, otherwise the BR battery may leak and ruin the lighted nock system.
Our BL and BU batteries have 36-month and 84-month shelf lives respectively. Firenock lighted nocks, like all electronic devices, drain a small amount of power continuously from the battery when it is installed, even when not in use. Thus, if not removed, the battery will be completely drained within 9 to 12 months. We recommend removing and storing a BL or BU battery if it is not going to be used for 3 or more months in its original battery case and in a cool place (e.g. basement).
The Target (T) Firenock lighted nock system uses the same "G-Switch" technology as in the Hunting Firenock lighted nock, but will automatically turn off 17 seconds after activation instead of staying continuously lit. It is the only lighted nock system which is approved for use at ASA and IBO shoots. 17 seconds is the "special" and perfect number because it allows you to see your arrow's flight from start to finish without it influencing your next shot (or helping your competitors' shots!). You can also use the Target lighted nocks during practice to refine your aim. Target lighted nocks are the same weight as Hunting (H) and Intermittent (I) lighted nocks, so you do not need to re-tune your bow if you decide to exchange one system for another within the same shaft.
While the Target Firenock lighted nock has a good tolerance for high temperatures, it's not as tolerant in low temperatures as the Hunting Firenock lighted nock. To be precise, the Target lighted nocks work reliably between 32°F and 140°F. If the temperature is lower than 32°F, the battery power/voltage output can disrupt the digital timer, and cause the Target Firenock to not stay on for the full 17 seconds.
Firenock lighted nocks are equipped with an epoxy-coated circuit and a gold-plated connector. This makes Firenock water resistant and thus suitable for brackish and salt water bow-fishing. To completely waterproof your Firenock, try one of our two bow-fishing adapters to keep your Firenock lighted nock lit in brackish or salt water for weeks.
For a standard 5/16" fiberglass arrow, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock "S" nocks.
For standard carbon bow-fishing arrows with an internal diameter of about 0.244" - 0.246", this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock "S" nock. The BI adapter also has a pre-tapped hole to accept a slide stop.
As of August 2017, lighted nocks are legal for use during archery hunting season in every state in the USA. For more details on the latest regulation updates, see below.
2010 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in North Dakota.
2012 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Wyoming.
2013 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Washington.
2014 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Colorado.
2015 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Oregon.
2017 update: It is legal to use lighted nocks in Montana.
Every Firenock lighted nock system comes with Firenock brand nocks. The Firenock nock is self-concentric once installed and boasts a unique throat design. Some styles of Firenock nocks are marked to ensure high quality and ease of identification. According to our data, Firenock nocks can achieve 1 to 2 ft/sec higher speed than most other manufacturer nocks.
Unlike any other lighted nock, you can easily field change the polycarbonate nock, circuit, and/or battery of the Firenock lighted nock system. It is recommended to replace a nock whenever it has passed through an animal to avoid breakage from scoring via bone (particularly during low temperatures i.e. under 4° F). For those who do not hunt, still replace your nocks every three to five years (dependent on use). Being a clear translucent nock, it is easy for UV light to degrade the plastic.
There are currently up to 9 nock colors and up to 6 LED circuit colors, thus a combination of 54 color of light can be produced for Firenock lighted nock. This is achieved as Firenock is nock changeable, thus different LED circuit colors can fit with different nock colors to produce different colors of light. Below is a table showing current available nock color, circuit LED colors and the combination of (light) which can be produced.
To tell what circuit function it is, there is a letter (H/T/I) on one side of the circuit; H = Hunting, T = Target, I = Intermittent. If there is no letter on the circuit, the easiest way is to activate it.
Firenock offers up to 54 colors of lighted nocks to suit almost all lighting conditions. In most cases, red nock on a red LED is the best for non color blind under all lighting conditions. This choice is also found on cars as all tail lights are red in color. For color blindness (red and green color blind person), experience has shown that green / yellow nock on a yellow LED generally works very well. For spring turkey hunting, green nock on a green LED is good as turkeys are found on a green background or on evening hunt, or for a full moon night hunt for pigs or predators. Blue nock on a blue LED looks wonderful under indoor fluorescent lighting or outdoor hunting in the dark moonless nights.
There are 3 sizes of circuit to fit Firenock lighted nocks. They are different sizes in order to fit different diameters of arrow shafts.
Below is a video to show the interchangeability of the 2 main sizes of Firenock circuit.
By adding Firenock to your arrow, there should be no noticeable effect to the arrow for most archers. On occasion, when the setup is already at the limit of what can be done with that particular setup, adding an extra 10 to 15 grain can cause issues. Under this condition, the following nock tuning procedure should bring your bow back to where it was.
When you convert from a regular nock to the Firenock (either lighted nock or practice nock), you may run into a few minor tuning situations; which are listed below. Your specific results could vary depending on the setup, release method, and type of arrow rest. All information provided below is based on a right-handed shooter, using a mechanical release and a drop-away arrow rest.
Porpoising: Since we are adding weight (approximately 15 additional grain) to the back end of the shaft, the nock will tend to drop as it leaves the bow string. If you are using a shoot through type of arrow rest (Whisker Biscuit, Hostage Pro or NAP 360) this may not be noticeable. If you are using the standard drop-away arrow rest, you may get either a tail up or tail down tear when paper tuning your bow since the arrow will be hitting the bow shelf or rest as it passes by. This will also be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target; the nock will porpoise all the way to the target. A few solutions include
Adjusting the timing of your rest: As long as you have enough clearance, try to adjust the timing of your drop-away to have it start dropping towards the back third of your arrow. Arrow rests that connect to the cable guard slide or limb (Vapor Trail Limb Driver) work well to correct this situation.
Move D-loop: Another possible solution would be to move your d-loop or nocking point up the string. Try moving in increments of 1/32 of an inch until the situation is corrected.
Stiff Shaft: Any time weight is added to the back end of the arrow, the arrow tends to react as if it is stiffer than normal. This will be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard range. The arrow will tend to hit to the left when compared to arrows without weight in the back end of the shaft. This is more apparent when shooting broad heads. The arrow may also fishtail all the way to the target. When paper tuning, you may get a tail right tear. A few solutions include:
Move arrow rest: The first step should be to move the arrow rest out slightly to try and correct the stiff shaft effect. If that does not work, try the following additional solutions.
Adding weight to the point: If you are using 100 grain tips, try 125 grain tips.
Longer arrow: Try the same arrow only 1/2 to 1 inch longer. The additional length will make the arrow more flexible, or less stiff.
Combination: It is possible to have a combination of the above effects. This would be noticeable by witnessing the nock going in a cork-screw fashion when shooting at the 30 yard target. Also, you may get a diagonal tear when paper tuning. Follow the above steps concentrating on the porpoising effect first. Then move to correct the left and right effect.
In some cases when you shoot Firenock with an older bow with a worn-in string, the deformed string will torque the Firenock nock when in full pull and release. A new string or redoing the serving (i.e. perfectly round) should solve the problem. Please make sure the size of the serving is correct.
There are 4 main reasons that can cause this issue:
The roundness of the string: If the serving on the string is old and it is worn-in, the shape of the serving is no longer round. This would form an uneven pressure to the nock and thus cause it to crack the nock as it is being torqued when shot. If the serving is not even, this will also cause this to happen.
The size of the string: Firenock nock throat is designed to fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.115"/2.92mm. Some bow manufacturer bow strings serving can be as big as 0.135"/3.429 mm which is too big to fit the Firenock nock. If the string serving is bigger than 0.125"/3.175mm, the nock can crack.
The nock is over 3 to 5 years old or the polycarbonate is beginning to degrade.
The nock has been shot through an animal and has score mark(s) on it which can induce premature failure.
CAUTION: Using Firenock on string serving that is bigger than what is recommended may cause the nock to crack, dry fire, and injury may occur.
If the serving on the string is larger than the usual 0.12" (3.05mm), the nock will grab on the string tighter than normal. For a light weight arrow and a light weight tip, this situation can be obvious. A smaller size serving or a new string with a smaller size serving should solve this problem. It is recommended to use serving between 0.110" to 0.115" for Firenock styles (A, E, G, S, and V).
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing needs to be removed in order to install Firenock. Please call us for more details.
Firenock "E" style nocks will fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter arrows have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280", and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. To install Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be cut and removed as the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue. Please note forcing it out is found to be difficult, and heating the shaft will cause separation of the aluminum from the carbon layer. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ended is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that you may need to shave off some ridges on the nock in order to fit the shaft perfectly.
The uni-bushing must be removed in order to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. With minor modification, the Firenock "S" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade to shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" and this would allow Firenock S to fit the arrow shaft of ID 0.240".
The uni-bushing must be removed before installing Firenock E nock. Firenock 'E' style nock can fit the following shafts:.
Epic/Excel - inner diameter of ~0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 - inner diameter of ~0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 - inner diameter of ~0.220" or 5.56mm => Need to shave off half the height of ridges to fit. The Extreme shock end cap need to use M3.25 x 1.0 on first grove (thinner grove) in order to work.
The uni-bushing must be removed before installing Firenock S style nock. If it is too loose, apply a small amount of super glue to the inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
The uni-bushing must be removed to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. Cut away uni-bushing and the arrow shaft should fit Firenock A style nock. If it is too loose, brush a small amount of super glue to inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
There are 2 ways to remove the UNI-bushing (Please note that you may damage your arrow).
1) Mechanically: After removing the nock, use a wood thread screw so it can bite into the uni-bushing to give a strong hold. Use the largest vise grip you have and clamp tight at the head of the screw. Put the vise grip sideway on a block of wood so it lays flat; the arrow should be pointing towards sky. Lift the arrow with one hand so it is about half an inch from the wood, use a hammer to hit as close to the screw on the vise grip as possible. The strike force will assert direct downward force and pop the uni-bushing out with the screw in it. .
2) Thermally: After removing the nock, try to locate a nail that barely fit inside the hole of uni-bushing. Heat the nail with open flame. The heat energy will transfer from the nail to the uni-bushing, and soften the glue between the uni-bushing and the shaft which this allow the uni-bushing to be extracted from the shaft without causing damage to the shaft.
Firenock "S" style is designed to fit any archery projectile that has an ID of 0.242" to 0.246" and thus will fit Carbon Impact shafts (ID 0.242"). If it is very tight to fit, you can smudge some bow wax on the nock as lubricant to make the installation easier. For those who prefer finger tight installation, you can slightly shave off 2 or more ridges to your desired tightness.
Firenock M and F are both double O-ring fit design. The package of M/F Firenock for crossbow comes with 4 sizes of O-rings. By following the O-ring installation chart in the installation manual, you can fit a Firenock M/F nock into nearly every standard crossbow bolt that is listed on back of the package. As of August 2016, the old crosbock nock ""C style nock was replaced by M nock. The new C style is to fit a 0.12"+/-0.03" serving srting and fit inside a 0.300" ID shaft.
If there is a gap between the nock and the bolt end, your Firenock lighted nock is not installed properly and the nock may crack upon impact as there is no full contact surface to transfer the force evenly. Please install the nock slowly into the bolt using a push and rotate method. In case you are using slim crossbow bolts like Carbon Express crossbow bolts, Firenock "Y" style is what you should use.
Firenock "Y" nock tube diameter is 0.273" and is 0.282" with ridges. With ridges, it will fit the Carbon Express crossbow bolts and Parker Red Hot nicely (if you have the old bolts, you may need to drill out the original nock). In 2010, many Carbon Express bolts and Red Hot bolts have their nock pressed in instead of glued in. The actual diameter of the inside of the current non-glue bolt can be as small as 0.2815", thus it is advised to add a tiny bit of super gel at the base of the nock to ensure the nock will not turn or pop out during normal operation, and you can easily break that glue to remove the nock if needed.
With all 8 ridges shaved off, the Y nock will also fit the Crossfire bolts made by Vapor AKA Gold Tip Laser II Kinetics and AKA Gold Tip Laser IV which is 0.273". To make the Y nock sit totally flush with the bolt, you need to counter sink 1/32" to allow the wedged nock to sink perfectly into the shaft.
For pre 2016 Firenock style "C", and the current F, and M style lighted nock, using the wrong size O-ring could cause this problem as the over-sized O-ring will pinch the circuit down and disengage the circuit from the clip and lock system. Installing the right size O-ring will solve the problem.
If extreme shock end cap is not installed and you shoot your arrow into a hard target like Spiderweb and your arrow speed is 400fps, the circuit will disengage from the nock and fly forward.
Below is the procedure written by Harold Webster.
It appears that more and more folks are purchasing lighted nocks for their archery projectile. No matter which lighted nock that you wish to use, you must remove every single bit of the glue or the nock will not insert properly. Procedure to remove the plastic nocks from 2219 aluminum projectile:
(1) Install a field tip to block the projectile front hole.
(2) Grasp the orange/black nock with a pair of pliers.
(3) Gently heat around the shaft at the end of the nock with a propane torch or on open flame stove.
(4) When the glue just begins to melt (most of the time), the pressure inside the arrow shaft will begin to slightly push the nock out.
(5) Gently, pull and twist the nock out with the pliers.
That was the easy part. The hard part is removing all the residual melted glue inside of the shaft. All brands of lighted nocks fit very tight inside of the arrow shaft and it is absolutely mandatory that all of the residual melted glue inside of the shaft be completely removed. To remove the residual glue, I have tried scraping, bore brushes mounted in a drill and rat-tail files; none of these methods work and you run a risk of damaging the inside of your shaft.
To absolutely remove all of the residual glue, you will need two drill bits: a 7.75 mm and a 7.8 mm and a .30 cal. bore brush.
(1) Once the nock is removed, chuck the 7.75 mm drill bit; drill in and out very slowly.
(2) Chuck the 7.8 mm drill bit; drill in and out very-very slowly. The 7.8 mm bit is the exact size of the ID of 2219 archery projectile. So, go slow and carefully.
(3) Chuck the .30 cal bore brush; drill in and out to remove any powdered glue.
For your information, we now suggest our customer to purchase their crossbow arrows without the nocks installed. This eliminates the entire nock removal issue.
In late September 2010 Firenock was informed by customers that some Barnett crossbows may not work well with Firenocks due to the ADF. After discussion with Barnett, an extensive test was done by Barnett and the following were the outcomes. The good news was that all new Barnett bows will work with all 3 Firenock styles after the revision in the last quarter of 2010.
Firenock, LLC is located in Henry, IL, USA. Firenock lighted nocks are designed, packaged, and assembled in the USA and its main components are made in the United States. Furthermore, American made components are the main cost of production and they represent over 55% of what you paid for a pack of Firenock G3h-R for an example. FYI, the G-switch is custom-made in New Jersey while pin connector etc are made in California, New York, Texas, Maryland, and Illinois.
Firenock lighted nock is not just a simple wire with an LED attached, a fishing float light in a nock, or some custom integrated circuit glued into a stock nock.
To make "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock", we chose the best polycarbonate, use molding steel from Germany, and the highest-quality resin force-injection to order to make firenock having the best light transmission and translucent properties. For the brain and soul of Firenock, it has a 2-layer circuit board with a micro chip processor to achieve accurate activation and to prevent accidental turn on and off. We also utilized 24K gold plated connectors to ensure durability and reliability.
Next, inside Firenock, there is a custom made acceleration switch to make Firenock activates without magnet or visible physical switch. thus Firenock is a closed system and there is no physical thing which may touch or affect your system / accuracy. We also custom made our own battery. These batteries are epoxy-sealed battery and has a shelf life up to 13 months when the battery is stored at 30° F. The battery has specially formulated chemistry in order to work from -17° F to 160° F.
Firenock plain nock alone required at least 160 engineering hours and 10 molds to perfect. We use a five-piece mold instead of a three-piece mold to make the two clips, the lock hole and to give a diamond pattern to the ridges. The prong part of the mold is polished in order to give Firenock the cleanest release possible. There are also mold mark and cavity numbers on each nock for quality control. With this specification, Firenock plain nock can have virtually no variance after sorted by their cavity numbers.
The above mentioned may sound very scientific and technical, but without these detail it is not possible to achieve perfection. Bringing you "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock" is not an easy thing and it's definitely not an inexpensive venture. Firenocks are simple to use and reliable because we put so much effort in them and that is how we ensure that the Firenock that you purchased will work as described.
The Firenock G-switch found in our lighted nock is the smallest acceleration switch ever built commercially. The size of the switch is only 2 mm in diameter and 6 mm long. To make the G-switch this small and reliable, custom tooling is required and it is made in USA. To make a switch that can handle no less than 12,000,000 cycles of activation ,up to 1,500G in the canister and internally gold coated, it is easy to understand why Firenock lighted nocks are more expensive but more reliable than other brands of nocks.
3 battery models are offered to fit different hunting conditions especially temperature and to give different brightness. In general, BR gives the brightest light, but it has a shelf life of 9 months, BL is almost all round and it has 2 years shelf life. BU is for back up purpose as it has a shelf life of 7 years, but it gives relatively less brightness and it is more expensive than BR and BL. Please visit our web-store for more details.
Three tiny battery pin O-rings come standard with all Firenock battery packs. It is important for insulation and shock absorption. If you lost your O-rings, they are available on our web-store (product code is OB).
For old Firenock MOSFET based fuzzy logic chip-set and old standard battery, what you have observed can happen. It is because as the battery ran down to about 90%, the 3 stage fuzzy logic "sort of " shut off due to lack of power, but at this stage, it also allows the battery to air charge without draining it. When the sun goes down, the rapid drop of temperature may be enough to give the logic system enough energy to restart the system. The present or after 2009 Firenock are IC driven, so it will not have this drain off issue and will stay lit continuously.
When a Firenock battery is installed into a Firenock lighted nock system, some energy will be used. In general, no matter what type of Firenock battery you use, the battery is only good for about one year if keep installed on the circuit. Thus it is recommended to remove the battery after each hunting season and put it back in the case for reuse (except for BR as it has around 9 months shelf life).
For Firenock manufactured before 2011, the Firenock core system is a set of Motorola fuzzy logic chip sets. If the battery was installed in the nock system, the high power X-rays used in airports to scan luggage can cause the system to get confused or damaged. To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when traveling by air.
In the situation that you forgot to remove the battery during air travel, remove the battery as soon as possible after the flight. Let the nock sit still without the battery for a few minutes, reinstall the battery, and test the system no less than 3 times to make sure all is working properly. If the nock still turns on by itself after the reset, the logic circuits are damaged and need to be replaced. If the nock was purchased within 30 days, exchange will still be valid. More than 30 days, you can use our refresh service and get a new set of Firenocks at a discounted price.
Beginning in 2011, the Firenock utilized IC system instead of the MOSDET chip set, thus it is no longer critical to remove the battery before a flight. It is, however, a good practice to check your Firenocks after a flight as baggage handling may accidentally switch them on.
For 2009 or later Firenock lighted nock, the circuits are UV cure epoxy coated for waterproofing, however if the Firenock lighted nock is continuously submerged in water without the Bow-Fishing adapter, its runtime will drop as water is discharging the battery.
Firenocks are designed to fit perfectly to specific shafts. If your Firenock does not fit your shaft, you may have the wrong style nock for your shaft.
If the nock got stuck, the easiest way is to remove it using a pair of pliers. There is a high probability that your nock will be damaged. If the nock is damaged, please replace the nock. A small amount of bow string wax or vegetable oil can be applied to the nock before installing your nock when it is difficult to insert the nock into the arrow.
Like all electronics, poor battery connection is the number one cause of failure. Please make sure that the first cross-lock of the battery wire connector is seated tightly at the neck groove of the battery (refer to the diagram in the installation manual on the installation page for more details). Also make sure the cross-lock battery wire connector is not touching the center battery pin. If it has been touching for an extended period of time, the battery may have already been shorted out and a new battery is required.
If the nock is within the warranty period, please call us for advice or send it back for evaluation.
Under extreme temperature or humidity, a Firenock may require 8 seconds for the system to reset before it can be deactivated. Furthermore, Firenocks have a built-in motion sensor for ultimate shut-off protection (i.e. the motion sensor will reset the digital timer to prevent accidental turn off or on).
If the battery power is too low, this will also cause the Firenock failed to shut off. A new battery will solve the problem.
If the above cannot solve the problem, please call us for assistance. For target circuit, if it does not shut off by itself 20 seconds after activation, please call us for assistance.
There are several reasons why a rattling sound is heard: Firenock manufactured after 2009: There may be a 0.15mm gap between the circuit and the nock. 0.02mm has been added to the circuit to make sure that there will be no space for the circuit to rattle. Firenock manufactured before 2009:
it may be caused by one of the followings:
1) There may be a 0.15 mm gap between some older Firenock LED and the polycarbonate nock. Apply a thin layer of Vaseline or silicon gel on the LED and re-insert it back in the polycarbonate nock. The gel should take up the space and stop the rattling.
2) After shooting into a hard object, the circuit board clip and lock may expand the holes on the sides on the polycarbonate nock. Nock locking holes can be damaged and this will allow the circuit board room to move inside of the nock. Replacing the polycarbonate nock should solve the issue.
3) Some Firenocks come with several sizes of O-rings. Installing the incorrect O-rings will allow the battery to knock against the inner wall of the arrow shaft.
Firenock style "A" gives the tightest fit among the styles of Firenocks. It is due to the small size of the 0.202" arrow size. Without being as tight as possible, there will be not enough pressure to hold the nock properly. In order to install Firenock "A" style successfully, lubricating the nock is required.
Due to the tight fit of Firenock A, please jiggle the nock back-and-forth in order to remove the nock from the arrow. Twisting the nock out from the shaft is not suggested as the nock may be damaged.
For discontinued Firenock with dual loop battery connector, it may be caused by bad connection due to:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the shell of the battery during installation - clean the battery.
2) The "C" lock at the end of the battery connector is bent open, leaving it too loose - reinstall the battery.
3) The battery Pin O-ring is not installed and the battery body is making contact with the pin connector on impact - replace the battery and battery O-ring.
For Firenock with EZ Coil battery connector, it may be caused by bad connection due to:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the body of the battery during installation - clean the battery.
2) The battery was turned close-wise and the battery wire connector is bent and make connection with the pin connector on impact - please call us for assistance.
3) The battery end cap was not installed properly and the battery was dislodged from the circuit.
If your problem still cannot be solved after reading the above, please call Firenock for assistance.
When you install Firenock in an archery projectile that contains a weight tube, it is suggested to cut the weight tube to the length equal to the space between the base of the nock (without the circuit) and the insert. For Firenock C, E, F, S, V and Y styles, the weight tube needs to cover and to be over the circuit of the Firenock lighted nock system. This approach allows the weight tube to touch the nock and ride over the Firenock circuit and battery. When you cuts the weight tube to make room for the Firenock circuit and O-ring, the room which allows for the weight tube to move will actually damage the Firenock circuit. This is because when the projectile hits the target, the forward motion and impact may cause the weight tube to move backward and forward. This hammer-like action can permanently damage the Firenock circuit.
For Firenock style A, since there is technically no room between the circuit and inside diameter of the nock, a weight tube is not recommended without the installation of an Extreme Shock Battery End Cap [XA].
The Extreme Shock Battery End Cap acts as a protector for the circuit from the impact of the weight tube upon impact. Therefore, there is no issue when using a weight tube with any Firenock lighted nock system when an Extreme Shock Battery End Cap is installed.
When your Firenock polycarbonate nock cracks, it is usually due to:
There are tiny bubbles in the nock which create a weak spot in the nock. If this is the case, please send back the nock (just the polycarbonate nock) and a new set will be sent to you.
Some bow strings have very big serving, which is bigger than 0.12"/3.05 mm vs the norm 0.11"(2.8mm). FYI, Firenock nock throat is exactly 0.110"-0.115""(2.800 mm). When serving diameter exceeds 0.12"/0.305 mm, the nock may crack. You can resolve this issue by changing the serving on the string to a smaller one or to use a bow string with a smaller serving. If both methods above are not preferred and if your Firenock is purchased within 30 days, please return your Firenock to where you purchased for a full refund.
Some older bow strings may be uneven; those bumps and grooves will mar the inside of Firenock polycarbonate nock. This mar on the nock will cause the nock to crack (i.e. nock prong may break off when shot from a bow). The only solution to this issue is using a new serving or a high quality string that does not have the above issue. Vapor Trail, HogWire, Fury X, Winners Choice, etc. are samples of good quality brand bow strings .
The polycarbonate nock is over 3 years old and it has degraded to the point that it could no longer hold any strength.
The nock has been shot through animal and it may been scored, thus it can be cracked easily under pressure.
If your arrow speed is over 280 fps and your Firenock utilizes the discontinued dual loop battery connector system, you need to install extreme shock end cap. Otherwise the impact will break the nock and disengage the circuit.
For Firenock with EZ Coil battery connector, extreme shock end cap must be installed.
If your have the EZ Coil type Firenock circuit, you must have extreme shock end cap installed. In many cases, if your end cap was not glued properly and it moved more than 2mm forward; this will allow the battery to disengage form the circuit and the light will shut off on impact. The easiest way to test if the extreme shock end cap was installed properly or not is to use the end cap installation tool to check if it can be threaded onto the installed end cap and be flushed with the end of the shaft. If it does not, the end cap is not installed properly and should be removed and reinstalled.
It may be due to:
1. There is back pressure in the arrow shaft. Please remove the field point or broadhead to release the pressure.
2. There is glue residue inside the shaft. Please clean the shaft and reinstall the end cap.
Extreme shock end cap MUST be installed for Firenock system to function correctly. For discontinued Firenock with dual loop battery connector, extreme shock battery end cap is needed if you are shooting above 280 fps.
There is a high possibility that the end cap is not installed properly inside the arrow shaft. Please make sure the end cap is not dislocated. If it is dislocated, please reinstall the end cap. While doing re-installation, please clean the shaft and use super glue gel such as Firenock AG0GEL. After installation of the end cap, please wait for 12 hrs to allow the glue to dry. If you do not want to wait, please cover the battery and connectors with tape to prevent glue vapor depositing on circuit and battery.
The answer is yes, Firenock S style lighted nocks can be used, but it will take some work as the FOB has a lip that goes right between the Nock neck and the shaft which causes FOB to not be able to be used with most lighted nocks. Below is the procedure:
Shave off a tiny edge from the back of the shaft! A pencil sharpener will do the job. This is to create a groove between the nock and the shaft. After sharpening, it is recommended to use Firenock APS to square the end.
Drill the FOB lip hole with a 9/16 drill bit. If possible use a drill press to remove as little amount as possible as you are only trying to make a TINY LIP for the FOB to ride onto. This would allow 0.055-0.065" of material on the lip of the FOB.
Install the Firenock into the arrow. Slide the modified FOB form the back over the nock. It will go over the Firenock and the new TINY LIP will now rest over that groove between the nock and the shaft. When shot into an animal, the FOB will move backwards and over the Firenock lighted nock without needing to pop out. So the Firenock lighted nock will not be destroyed when the FOB pops out. This works quite well for those who would like to use FOB with a Firenock lighted nock.
PSE Tac nocks are glued in for a very specific reason, it is due to the fact that the shaft is made by weaving and it can give in many ways and they can vary among the shafts. If the nock is not glued in (like Firenock D) and when the nock is pressed from shooting, the diameter of the shaft can expand and the nock can be forced into the shaft (see photo below). In the case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed due to the above mentioned issue. This situation is observed not only for Firenock D but also for factory black nocks that are not glued in; especially for the Tac shafts made in 2010. Many who have experienced this issue were told to glue the nock in order to solve the problem. The gluing of the nock, however, is not a good answer as a lighted nock cannot be installed or replaced. To address this issue, installing Bull Dog nock Collar seems to be the answer as the collar can hold the back end of the shaft from expanding. If the extreme shock end cap was installed before the bull dog collar was added, the depth of the extreme shock end cap could be 1 mm deeper which would allow the circuit board room to move. In this case, you can add a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to fill up that space.
The following Firenock will fit the 0.300" internal diameter arrows like the Tac, Black Eagle Executioner, Zombie Slayer; Firenock Aerobolt II-200, II-G, Dragon Slayer; GoldTip Laser II, Laser II Pro, Laser III; Harvest Time HS-X, Victory, and most Easton carbon crossbow shafts. Below listed the nock serving size and their ID:
Firenock V - fit serving size of 0.115+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID (In-line)
Firenock C - fit serving size of 0.125+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID (Bowtech crossbow)
Firenock U - fit serving size of 0.135+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID
Firenock Q - fit serving size of 0.145+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID (Scorpyd, Parker)
Firenock J - fit serving size of 0.155+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID (Mission MXB except 400 which should only use Mission metal nock)
Firenock D - fit serving size of 0.165+/-0.03" with 0.298" ID (PSE-Tac)
Firenock D2 - fit serving size of 0.165+/-0.03" with 0.300" ID (Aerobolt in 26" for Tac)
It is normal to feel loose while fitting Firenock D into AeroBolt 2 as the Firenock D is designed to fit the Tac arrows which has an internal diameter of 0.298". The AeroBolt has an ID of 0.300". For those who want a better fit D nock for Aerobolt, you should use D2 which is the identical clip on design as the D nock but is designed to fit 0.300" ID.