Firenock has 3 main functions of circuits; Hunting (H), Target (T), and Intermittent(I). Hunting will continuously light till battery runs out or you manually switch it off; target will stay lit around 17 seconds once you shot the arrow and then switch off automatically by itself to allow shooter to make the next shot; while Intermittent will stay lit for 6 seconds then blink till battery runs out or when you manually switch it off.
Below is a comparison table to show the differencesbetween Firenock G series and other brand lighted nock:
Firenock lighted nock
Other brand lighted nock
Accidental lighting and accidental deactivation
No (Firenock activates by change in speed, controls by fuzzy logic and time delay system, thus Firenock will stay lit even the game is jumping and running violently)
Yes (for those with physical switch; pulling out and pushing in)
Yes (for magnetic system one will be affected by magnetic field / X- ray scanner)
Need actuator to turn on Light
No (Firenock activates by change in speed)
Yes (magnetic system needs a magnet)
Working temperature range
Hunting circuit: 15 F to 180 F
Target circuit: 32 F and 140 F
Influence by magnetic field
(Firenock activates by change in speed)
(Magnetic system one will be affected by magnetic field or X-ray scanner)
last for years and there is lifetime refresh warranty and 30 days no question ask service
maybe good for one season or less
Yes (Replacement nock pack available)
Yes (Battery pack available)
Choice of Nock Styles
(A, C, D, E, F, J, S, V, Q, Y, O for most arrows on the market)
Less than 4 styles
Yes (battery pack available)
Choice of nock colors
Up to 9 colors (red, pink, orange, yellow, green, blue, clear, smoke, wood)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of LED colors
Up to 6 colors (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, white)
Less than 3 colors
Choice of battery
BL (shelf life ~ 3 year)
BU (shelf life ~ 7 years)
Reliable to shoot into hard objects
(With extreme shot end cap installed)
Different functions of Circuits
3 (Hunting, Target, Intermittent)
Nock and circuit interchangeability
Yes (e.g. S circuit can match with 11 styles of nocks, S nock can interchange with 3 functions of circuit)
Hunting circuit: 3 weeks
Spin balanced, Rattle proof
Yes (with the extreme shock end cap installed)
Up to 120 yards
Weather proof, blood proof
Yes (gold plated connector and epoxy coated circuit)
a. Wait 4-8 seconds after activation before trying to deactivate the system.
b. Lift the arrow (nock-end down) no less than 8 inches (20 cm) above a semi-hard flat surface.
c. Drop the arrow (nock-end down) and allow the nock to hit the surface via gravitational force.
d. Upon impact, the Firenock will deactivate automatically.
e. If the nock does not deactivate, repeat Steps (b-c) and raise the distance in 2-inch (5 cm) increments until the unit deactivates.
Note: A pine block, the top of your boots or the inside floor of your truck are examples of semi-hard surfaces. If the Firenock does not shut off after a free-fall distance is as high as 12" (30 cm), please return your Firenock for warranty.
To install the battery, DO NOT use your fingernail to force the cross lock wire into the neck of the battery as injuries may occur while doing this. After inserting the battery into the pin connector and with the cross loop just over the neck, ROTATE the battery counterclockwise to let the cross lock wire goes smoothly into the battery neck. Then, flip the "C" lock (wire end) over the battery and the battery installation is completed. Note: the "C" lock should go around the battery slightly IN FRONT of the O-ring grove located near the end of the battery. To remove the battery, flip up the "C" lock wire to unlock and then rotate the battery clockwise. The cross lock wire will open wide and the battery can be easily removed.
The following Video would also how you how install the battery onto a Firenock lighted nock with dual loop connector.
The best way to tell if the battery is still good is to use a battery tester. A volt meter only shows the battery voltage output, it does not show the remaining power of the battery. For Firenock batteries, even when they are 90% drained, the volt meter may show that it is 3.0v. We recommend GB Instruments™ GBT-500A Battery Tester (e.g. can purchase on www.amazon.com) and most hardware store (e.g. ACE Hardware, Menards) for about US$10.00. To test Firenock battery with the battery tester, set the dial to "LITHIUM 3V", use the red probe (positive) to the shell of the battery and the black probe (negative) to the pin of the battery.
BR battery has only 6 -8 months shelf life. It is meant for one season use, therefore it is not suggested to store and reuse the battery. After one season, please remove the BR battery, otherwise BR battery may leak and ruin the lighted nock system.
BL and BU battery has 36 months and 72 months shelf life respectively. Firenock lighted nock likes all electronic device, it will drain a small amount of power (slow drain) when the battery is installed, and thus the battery may die after 9 months if not removed. Therefore when Firenock lighted nock is not going to be used for 3 months. One should remove the battery from the circuit and store the battery in its original battery case and in a cool place (e.g. basement).
The Target (T) Firenock lighted nock uses the same technology "G switch" in the Hunting Firenock lighted nock, but the Target Firenock will automatically deactivate itself after 15 to 17 seconds after shot instead of continuously light on. It is the only lighted nock which is approved by ASA and IPO for Target shooting. The 17 seconds allow you to see the arrow flight and its location on the target, but it will not influence your next shoot. One can also use Target lighted nock as practice nock as you can refine your setting after seeing the flight and keep on practicing. Target lighted nock are the same weight as Hunting / Intermittent lighted nock, so you do not need to retune you bow while using hunting or target lighted nock.
Target Firenock lighted nock has a high temperature tolerance, but it is not as good as Hunting Firenock lighted nock. Target lighted nock will work reliably between 32°F and 140. If temperature is lower than 32°F, the duration of light may not be 17 seconds as low temperature will drop the battery power/voltage output which may make the digital timer to count incorrectly.
Firenock lighted nock is water resistance as Firenock utilizes 24K gold plated connectors and the system is UV cure epoxy coated. This makes Firenock suitable for bow-fishing applications and for brackish and salt water bow fishing, optional accessory is available to make Firenock extreme water proof and can work in saltwater for weeks. Firenock offers 2 bow-fishing adapters to suit what most Fishermen's need.
Standard 5/16" Fiberglass arrow adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on 5/16" solid fiberglass bow-fishing arrows.
Carbon Arrow Internal adapter, this adapter is specially designed to work with Firenock S nock on Carbon bow-fishing arrows with an internal diameter of ~0.244" - 0.246 and 1.0" inch of space. The adapter also has a pre-tapped hole to accept the slide stop.
As of 2013, the following 5 states (Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Wyoming) do not allow to use lighted nock to harvest game. Please check the latest updated regulation(s) for each state.
2010 update: It is legal to use lighted nock in North Dakota as of 2010 as stated on its web site.
2013 update: It is legal to use lighted nock in Washington as of 2013.
Firenock lighted nock system uses Firenock brand nock for extreme performance and accuracy. Firenock nock can self concentric itself once installed and it has the best nock throat design. For some styles of Firenock nock, they are marked to indicate which nock style it is and which cavity it is made from to ensure high quality and ease of identification (e.g. Y1 means Y mold whereas 1 means mold cavity 1). According to our data, Firenock nock can achieve 1 to 2 ft/sec higher speed than most other manufacturer nocks.
There are currently up to 9 colors of nock and up to 6 LED colors of circuit, thus a combination of 54 colors of light can be produced for Firenock lighted. This is achieved as Firenock is nock changeable, thus different LED colors of circuit can fit with different colors of nock to produce different colors of light. Below is a table showing current available nock colors and circuit LED colors and the combination of (light) which can be produced.
To tell what function of circuit it is, there is a letter (H/T/I) on one side of the circuit; H = Hunting, T = Target, I = Intermittent. If there is no letter on the circuit, the easiest way is to activate it. When you want to order more circuit, just refer to nock sizes and then order your preferred function of light.
Firenock offers up to 54 colors of lighted nock to suit almost all lighting condition. In most cases, red nock on red LED is the best, which this choice is also found for cars as all tail lights are red color. For color blindness (red and green color blind person), experience showed that green / yellow nock on yellow LED generally works very well. For spring turkey hunting, green nock on green LED is good as turkey is found on a green background. Blue nock on blue LED looks wonderful under indoor fluorescent lighting or outdoor hunting in the dark during moonless nights.
As stated in Pope and Young equipment definitions, Rule I,C.1.(c) Electronic or battery-powered devices shall not be attached to a hunting bow. Therefore if you use a lighted nock, you need to ask yourself like the State of Colorado did, "Can the arrow can be considered as a part that is attached to the bow?" If the answer is yes, then the answer to this question is yes. FYI, the last official ruling from P&Y was also a yes to this question. Therefore if you wanted to enter your harvest game in P&Y record book and you are using Firenock, make sure you use the practice nock (matched weight practice nock) to hunt, or your down game is not P&Y eligible. B&C record book however have no such rules against the using of a lighted nock on harvest game.
By adding Firenock to one's arrow, there should be no noticeable effect to the arrow for most archers. In occasion, when the set up is already at the limit of what can be done with that particular setup, by adding an extra 10 to 15 grains, all is right is no longer true. Under this condition, the following nock tuning procedure should bring your bow back to where you were.
When one converts from the regular nock to the Firenock (either lighted nock or practice nock), one may run into a few minor tuning situations; which are listed below. One's specific results could vary depending on the setup, release method and type of arrow rest. All information provided below is based on a right-handed shooter, using a mechanical release and a drop-away arrow rest.
Propoising: Since we are adding weight (approximately 15 additional grains) to the back end of the shaft, the nock will tend to drop as it leaves the bow string. If you are using a shoot through type of arrow rest (Whisker Biscuit, Hostage Pro or NAP 360) this may not be noticeable. If you are using the standard drop-away arrow rest, you may get either a tail up or tail down tear when paper tuning your bow since the arrow will be hitting the bow shelf or rest as it passes by. This will also be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target; the nock will porpoise all the way to the target. A few solutions include
Adjusting the timing of your rest: As long as you have enough clearance, try to adjust the timing of your drop-away to have it start dropping towards the back third of your arrow. Arrow rests that connect to the cable guard slide or limb (Vapor Trail Limb Driver) work well to correct this situation.
Move D-loop: Another possible solution would be to move your d-loop or nocking point up the string. Try moving in increments of 1/32 of an inch until the situation is corrected.
Stiff Shaft: Anytime weight is added to the back end of the arrow, the arrow tends to react as if it is stiffer than normal. This will be noticeable when shooting at a 30 yard target, the arrow will tend to hit to the left when compared to arrows without weight in the back end of the shaft. This is more apparent when shooting broad heads. The arrow may also fishtail all the way to the target. When paper tuning, you may get a tail right tear. A few solutions include:
Move arrow rest: The first step should be to move the arrow rest out slightly to try and correct the stiff shaft effect. If that does not work, try the following additional solutions
Adding weight to the point: If you are using 100 grain tips, try 125 grain tips.
Longer arrow: Try the same arrow only 1/2 to 1 inch longer. The additional length will make the arrow more flexible, or less stiff.
Combination: It is possible to have a combination of the above effects. This would be noticeable by witnessing the nock going in a cork-screw fashion when shooting at the 30 yard target. Also, you may get a diagonal tear when paper tuning. Follow the above steps concentrating on the propoising effect first. Then move to correct the left and right effect.
All Firenock styles, except some crossbow nocks, are designed to use with a string loop and to fit special size of serving for some crossbows. Please refer to Firenock selector or call us for assistance.
In some cases when you shot Firenock with an older bow with a worn-in string, the string with its deformed shaped based on the old nock will torque Firenock nock when in full pull and release. A new string or redoing the serving to perfectly round should solve the problem and please make sure the size of the serving is correct.
There are 2 main reasons that can cause this issue:
The roundness of the string: If the serving on the string is old and it is worn-in, the shape of the serving is no longer round. This would form an uneven pressure to the nock and thus cause it to crack the nock as it is being torqued when shot. If the serving is not even, this will also cause this to happen.
The thickness of the string: Firenock nock throat is designed to fit between 0.110"/2.79mm and 0.120/3.05mm". Some bow manufacturers' bow strings serving can be as thick as 0.135"/3.429 mm which is too big to fit Firenock nock. If the string serving is thicker than 0.125"/3.175mm, the nock can crack. CAUTION: Using Firenock on string serving that is thicker than what is recommended may cause the nock to crack, the bow to dry fire, and injury may occur.
A thinner and/or new serving on the string or a new string with thinner serving should solve this problem in most cases.
If the serving on the string is larger than the usual 0.12" (3.05mm), the nock will grab on the string tighter than normal. In case of a light weight arrow and a light weight tip, this can be obvious. A thinner serving or a new string with a thinner serving should solve this problem.
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing is need to be removed in order to install Firenock. Please call us for more details.
Firenock "E" style nock will fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter all have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280, and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. To install Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be cut and removed as the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue, forcing it out is close to impossible, and heating the shaft will cause separating of the aluminum from the carbon layer. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ended is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that you may need to shave off some ridges on the nock in order to fit he shaft perfectly.
One must remove the uni-bushing to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. With minor modification, the Firenock "S" style nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade and shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" which would allow the Firenock to fit the arrow shaft of ID 0.240".
One must remove the uni-bushing to fit the nock into the arrow shaft and Firenock 'E' style nock can fit all the following sizes with or with shaving away the ridges on nock cylinder.
Epic/Excel has an inside diameter of ~0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 has an inside diameter of ~0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 has an inside diameter of ~0.220" or 5.56mm => Need to shave off half of all ridges to fit
One must remove the uni-bushing to fit the nock into the arrow shaft and S style nock should fit. If it is too loose, brush a small amount of super glue to inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
One must remove the uni-bushing to fit the nock into the arrow shaft. Cut away uni-bushing and the arrow shaft should fit Firenock E style nock. If it is too loose, brush a small amount of super glue to inside of the shaft to decrease the ID of the arrow, repeat if necessary.
Both ways described below may damage your arrow.
1) Mechanically: After removing the nock, use a wood thread screw to so it can bite into the uni-bushing to form strong contact. Use the largest vise grip you have access to and crimp tight at the head of the screw. Put the vise grip sideway on a block of wood so it lay flat; the arrow should be pointing top the sky. Lift the arrow with one hand so it is about half an inched form the wood, use a hammer to hit as close to the screw on the vise grip as possible. The strike force will assert direct downward force and pop the uni-bushing out with the screw in it.
2) Thermally: After removing the nock, try to locate a nail that barely fit inside the hole of the uni-bushing. Heat the nail with open flame. The heat energy will transfer from the nail to the uni-bushing, and soften the glue between the uni-bushing and the shaft which all allow the uni-bushing to be extracted from the shaft without causing damage the shaft.
Firenock "S" style is designed to fit any archery projectile that has an ID of 0.242" to 0.246" and thus will fit Carbon Impact shafts (ID 0.242"). If it is very tight to fit, one can smudge some bow wax on the nock as lubricant to make the installation easier. For those who prefer finger tight installation, you can slightly shave off 2 or more ridges to your desired tightness.
Firenock C and F are both double O-rings fit design. Each package of Firenock standard size crossbow nocks come with 4 sizes of O-rings. By following the O-ring installation chart in the installation manual, you can fit a Firenock C/F nock into nearly every standard crossbow bolt that is listed on back of the installation manual.
If there is a gap between the nock and the bolt end, your Firenock lighted nock is not installed properly and the nock may crack upon impact as there is no full contact surface to transfer the force evenly. Please install the nock slowly into the nock by a push and rotate way. In case you are using slim crossbow bolt like Carbon Express crossbow bolts, Firenock "Y" style is what one should use.
Firenock "Y" crossbow nocks tube diameter is 0.273" and with the ridge it is 0.282". With ridges, it will fit the Carbon Express crossbow bolts and Parker Red Hot nicely if you have the old bolts that need to drill out the nock. In 2010, many Carbon Express bolts, Red-hot bolts all have their nock press in instead of glue in. The actual diameter of the inside of the current non-glue bolt can be as small as 0.2815". Knowing this, it is advised that one should drop a tiny bit of super gel at the base of the nock so it makes a single glue contact with the shaft. This will ensure the nock will not turn or pop out during normal operation, and one can easily break that glue to change the battery if needed.
With all 8 ridges shaved off, the Y nock will also fit the Crossfire bolts made by Vapor AKA Gold Tip Laser II Kinetics, AKA Gold Tip Laser IV which is 0.273". To make the Y nock sits totally flush with the bolt, one needs to counter sink 1/32" to allow the wedged neck to sink perfectly into the shaft.
For C and F styles lighted nock, using the wrong size of O-rings could cause this problem as the oversize O-ring will pinch the circuit down and disengage the clip and lock system. Upon impact, the circuit will disengage as the clip and lock system are no longer engaged. Picking and installing the right size O-ring is the key. When in doubt always use a smaller O-ring on the grove that the clip and lock system dent resides.
If one shot into hard target like Spiderweb and your arrow speed is 400fps, Extreme shock battery end cap must be installed. Otherwise, the circuit will disengage from the nock and fly forward.
If you are shooting over 320/360 fps using any form of practice nock for vertical bow/crossbow, it is no longer recommended to use the match weight. It is proven that the metal plate will break out from the nock no matter how much glue you use. If you use those for hunting to have matched weight, they are OK as it will be able to manage a few shot at animal(s) before it breaks. Due to high speed, the matched weight will have enough inertia in it to cut through the locking system of the polycarbonate nock, and eventually it will break through the nock.
When crossbows are slower AND when the target is mostly layer foam, everything works. With the speed of the current archery projectiles with target like the spiderweb, Morrell 400 fps, etc. only the most seriously design system will work. Unfortunately the 2006 designed matched weight for Firenock is not one of them. The design works very well back in 2006. In the past we have tried to suggest using super glue gel to make it work, but the tests showed that it only lasted about 20 shots in double Block target and less than 5 shots into a Spiderweb target with the scorpyd RDT165 at 425fps before the matched weight flied out. That is why since June 2010 all Firenock that are meant to shot with high speed crossbows like the Scorpyd, Tac15 which uses D, J, Q, and V styles all do not come with any practice weight. It is proven that it will not work no matter what, so it is not included. It is however decided that we should left the A, C, E, F, Y, and S style nock alone as many customers are still shooting slower archery projectile with which the current matched weight still works quite effectively.
Some customers have asked with the installing of extreme shock end cap will it work? Answer is simply No; however it will help to protect the arrow if the matched weight becomes loose. This is because when the matched weight flied out, it cannot fly the entire length of the arrow and cause damage to the shaft due to it is being stopped by the end cap, but the nock was still cut/damaged.
There is no easy solution to this as long as the bow/crossbow keep getting faster and target getting harder. Before 2013, the only real way is to make matched weight that is the same shape and size of the circuit plus the battery and use an extreme shock end cap with it. The pre-2013 way of using a dead battery with Firenock or a life target system, which is designed to shut off itself in 17 seconds with both supporting by an extreme shock end cap, are the 2nd ways if you want to practice with matched weight besides actually shooting a hunting or blinking Firenock. To address this issue entirely, in 2013 Firenock offers Match Weight X pack which is a stainless piece and is identical in weight and shape of a Firenock circuit and battery, and extreme shock end caps comes standard in this package.
Below is the procedure carefully written by Harold Webster.
It appears that more and more folks are purchasing lighted nocks for their archery projectile. No matter which lighted nock that you wish to use, you must remove every single bit of the glue or the nock will not insert properly. Removing the plastic nocks from 2219 aluminum projectile is a matter of following the procedure below:
(1) Install a field tip to block the projectile front hole.
(2) Grasp the orange/black nock with a pair of pliers.
(3) Gently heat around the shaft at the end of the nock with a propane torch or on open flame stove.
(4) When the glue just begins to melt (most of the time), the pressure inside the arrow shaft will begin to slightly push the nock out.
(5) Gently, pull and twist the nock out with the pliers.
That was the easy part. The hard part is removing all the residual melted glue inside of the shaft. All brands of light nocks fit very tight inside of the arrow shaft and it is absolutely mandatory that all of the residual melted glue inside of the shaft be completely removed. To remove the residual glue, I have tried scraping, bore brushes mounted in a drill and rat-tail files; none of these methods work and you run a risk of damaging the inside of your shaft.
To absolutely remove all of the residual glue, you will need two drill bits: a 7.75 mm and a 7.8 mm and a .30 cal. bore brush.
(1) Once the nock is removed, chuck the 7.75 mm drill bit; drill in and out very slowly.
(2) Chuck the 7.8 mm drill bit; drill in and out very-very slowly. The 7.8 mm bit is the exact size of the ID of 2219 archery projectile. So, go slow and carefully.
(3) Chuck the .30 cal bore brush; drill in and out to remove any powdered glue.
For your information, I now purchase my arrows without the nocks installed and this eliminates the entire nock removal problem.
Firenock XC and XF come standard with O-rings to fit from 0.297" to 0.301". 2219's inside diameter is 0.303" which would need a thicker O-ring to pick up the slack. The O-ring needed is the same size as the "A" size O-ring for the OC O-ring pack.
In late September 2010 Firenock was informed by its customer some Barnett crossbow may not work well with Firenocks due to the ADF. After the discussion with Barnett, an extensive test done was by Barnett, the following are the outcomes. The good news is that all new Barnett bows will work with all 3 Firenock styles after the revision in last quarter of 2010.
PSE Tac nocks are glued in for a very specific reason. The shaft is a weave shaft and it gives in many ways, some gives more than others. If the nock is not glue in (like Firenock D) when there is pressure from shooting and the specific shaft gives radically (i.e., the diameter of the shaft is allow to expand) the nock can be forced into the shaft. In case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed. This situation is observed not only with Firenock D but also with factory black nock that is not glue in. Many who has seen this and was told one need to glue the nock and be done.
The gluing of the nock is not a good answer for that means one must go back to the nock that cannot lit while most PSE owner agrees that they need a lighted nock to see where the arrow goes with such a fast bow. To address this, the solution to this issue is to look at the real problem/issue here. It is not the nock that is at fault, but the shaft. Its design allows it to flex radically, so we need to control that so the shaft would not expand radically. Some research later, I believe I have the perfect fix!
The outside diameter of the Tac-15 is 0.350". Carbon express CXL™ Pro 250 's outside diameter is 0.350" and it has a BullDog™ nock collar on it. The collar holds the back end of the shaft from expanding. I believe this is the perfect answer for controlling the Tac shaft from expanding. Like all Firenock application with bull dog collar, it is imperative that one must glue the collar onto the shaft or the Firenock will be decapitated when shot into hard object due to the movement of the collar.
It is better to install the collar first if you decide to use it. The collar added a full 1 mm to the length of the shaft. If the extreme shock end cap was installed first then the bull dog collar was added later, the depth of the extreme shock end cap would be 1 mm too deep which would allow the circuit board room to move! At 405 fps impact, it can spell disaster! If you already installed the extreme shock end cap, make sure you added a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to pick up that space so NOTHING moves!
Firenock, LLC is located in Henry, IL, USA. Firenock lighted nock is designed, packaged and assembled in the USA and its main components are made in the United States. According to The United States of America Department of Commerce's standards, Firenock lighted nock are qualified to be labeled as "Made in USA". Furthermore, American made components are the main cost of production item and they represent over 55% of what you pay for in the Firenock "GS". FYI, the G-switch is custom-made in New Jersey. Other USA-made components come from factories located in California, New York, Texas, Maryland and Illinois.
The Firenock "G" series is not just a simple wire with an LED attached, a re-assembled fishing baubles light in a nock, or some custom integrated circuit glued into a stock nock.
To make "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock", we must purchase the best materials and develop or locate the best manufacturers. We chose 0.0001 mm poly carbonate, molding steel from Germany, and the highest-quality resin force-injection to get the best light transmission and translucence properties. We have also chosen to use only optical quality poly carbonate.
For the brain and soul of a Firenock, we begin with a 2-layer circuit board; utilizing 24K gold plated connectors that are soldered at exactly 90 degrees to the board. SMT machines usually only deal with 2 axes and not 3 axes that we specify, so we developed a special process to bring you higher quality.
Next, inside every Firenock there is a custom designed acceleration switch and a Motorola (On Technology) chip set to drive the fuzzy logic circuit.
We attempted to source high-ratio Titanium alloy wire from Central Europe and failed (the US Department of Defense would not give import approval). We were able to identify a totally different alloy wire in Japan which met our exacting specifications. The wire that we chose is able to withstand the repeated shock of a 400+fps crossbow arrow shot into a 2" x 4" without a malfunction.
Firenock also designed its own battery. We custom-make an epoxy-sealed battery that has a shelf life of up to 13 months when the battery is stored at 30° F. Inside the battery is advanced chemistry that allows for a working temperature range of -17° F to 160° F.
In the case of the battery cross lock wire, we had to develop robotics that would form both a cross and a 360° backward bend. Traditional methods like manual jigs and most spring banding machines, just will not work with these close tolerances, sharp bends and thin wire. Both processes will break the 0.42 mm titanium alloy wire; so they were unacceptable. We needed a 4-axle, 2-arm system and that is the system that we now use.
The nocks alone required at least 160 engineering hours and 10 molds to perfect. Do you know how expensive a 0.001 mm precision mold is? We use a five-piece mold instead of a three-piece mold to form the two clips, the lock hole and to add a diamond pattern to the ridges. Then a 0.000,02 mm polish on the prongs gives your Firenock the cleanest release possible. If that is not enough, there are mold and cavity numbers on each nock for quality control. With all this exacting attention, a set of nocks (with as little as 0.000009" production variance) can only be achieved when cavity numbers are matched.
We at Firenock understand that this all may have sounded very scientific and technical, but without our attention to detail; how can we approach perfection? Bringing you "The Most Advanced Lighted Nock" is not an easy thing to accomplish and it's definitely not an inexpensive venture. Firenocks are simple to use and reliable because we put so much thought and effort into them and that how we ensure that the Firenock that you purchased will live up to our slogan.
The Firenock G-switch found in our lighted nock is the smallest acceleration switch ever built commercially. The size of the switch is only 2 mm in diameter and 6 mm long. To make G-switch this small and reliable, custom tooling is required and it is made in USA. Plus to make a switch that can handle no less than 12,000,000 cycles of activation and up to 1,500G in the canister and internally-plated with no less than 2µm of gold, it will be obvious why Firenock lighted nock is more expensive and more reliable than other brand nocks.
Many customers have raised concern that the standard Firenock Battery FNLN61[BR] has only about one year shelf life. Due to its short shelf life and inability to tolerate heat, as of Jan 2012, they should only be available from the month of mid July to end of December. (at this time, no supplier has met our QC so there may not be any BR for 2012) With this schedule, we can guarantee the freshness of the battery as they will be made in the first of July of that year. We can also be sure no one would have shorten the life of their battery due to placing it in high heat area. We discover that BR battery can shorten its life significantly when exposed to heat over 80F° for prolong period of time. (i.e. inside vehicle during summer) From January 2012, when anyone ordered the [BR] battery and with delivery date before a reliable shipment of [BR], [BL] battery will be shipped.
Firenock LLC also offers a longer shelf life, 36 months battery FNLN49 [BL]. With the [BL] battery, this allow us to offer you a longer shelf life, high temperature tolerance battery for your lighted nock operation. [BL] battery is offered year round as our main battery for our customer for the month of January to mid July; until the shipment of the [BR] is received for the year.
For 2012, we are offering the Ultra Long Shelf life battery FN0019 [BU]. With a rated shelf discharge rate is at 0.5% per year; it can have a theoretical shelf life of 200 years. From our experience with this battery since 1979, it has proved to be able to have ultra long shelf life. We shall guarantee it for no less than 5 years on the shelf under normal storage conditions. However it is not compatible with all Firenock as it should always be used with extreme shock end cap installed due to absent of O-ring grove for concentricity. But it can be used with Firenock style "A", as no O-ring is need in most cases.
No matter what battery you chose, if it is left installed on a Firenock system, one should not expect longer than one year of operating time as the circuit will slow drain the battery. This is due to the necessarily of it to listening for the G-switch to be fired as it is in stand-by mode. So if you know you are not going to use Firenock for a long period, take the battery off the circuit and put it back in its case; which such action, the shelf life of the battery will be maintained as it is now on the shelf, not providing power for the circuit.
Three tiny battery pin O-rings come standard with all Firenock battery pack. It is a good insurance for insulation and shock absorption. If you lost your O-rings, it is available on our web store (OB). Photo below shown where O-ring should be on the battery.
Firenock standard battery chemistry with Firenock fuzzy logic chip-set actually is what made this phenomenon possible.
As the battery ran down to about 90%, the 3 stage fuzzy logic "sort of " shut off due to lack of power, but at this stage, it also allows the battery to air charge without draining it. When the sun goes down, the rapid drop of temperature may be enough to give the logic system enough energy to restart the lighting process as it was never been fully shut off as it is only being drain off.
When Firenock battery is installed into a Firenock lighted nock system, some energy will be used. In general, no matter what type of Firenock battery one uses, it is good for about one year if keep installing on the circuit. Thus it is recommended to remove the battery after each hunting season (except BR) and put it back in the carrying case for reuse.
For Firenock manufactured before 2011, Firenock core system is a set of Motorola fuzzy logic chip sets. If the battery is installed in the nock the system; the high power X-ray used in airports to scan luggage can cause the system to get confused or damaged. To prevent this from happening, remove the battery when doing air travel.
In the situation that one forgot to remove the battery during air travel, remove the battery as soon as possible after the flight. Let the nock sitting still without the battery for a few minutes, reinstall the battery and test the system no less than 3 times to make sure all is working properly. If the nock still turns on by itself after the reset, the logic circuits are damaged and need to be replaced. If the nock is purchased within 30 days, exchange will still be valid. More than 30 days, one can use our refresh service and get a new set of Firenock at discount price.
From 2011, Firenock Hunting circuit utilizes IC system instead of MOSDET chip set, with Electro Magnetic Shield material coving the IC. Thus it is no longer critical to remove the battery before flight. It is however a great practice of checking your Firenock after flight as baggage handler may have switched them on.
For 2009 or later Firenock lighted nock, the circuits are UV cure epoxy coated for waterproofing, however if Firenock lighted nock is continuously submerged in water without Bow-Fishing Adaptor, its runtime will drop as water is discharging the battery.
Most Firenock are perfect fit inside the shaft, if this happens besides the "A" nock, you may have the wrong style nock for your arrow/bolt.
If that happens, the simple way to remove the nock is to use a set of pliers. There is a high probability that the nock will be damaged. If the nock is damaged, you will only need to insert the circuit board into another nock after you remove it from the shaft. It is only recommended that a small amount of bow string wax or vegetable oil be applied to the nock before insertion if the nock felt exceptional tight only if it is a Firenock "A" nock.
Like all electronics, poor battery connection is the number one cause of failure. Please make sure that the first cross-lock of the battery wire connector is seated tightly at the neck groove of the battery (refer to the diagram in the installation manual on the installation page for more details). Also make sure the cross-lock battery wire connector is not touching the center battery pin. If it has been touching for an extended period of time, the battery may have already been shorted out and a new battery is required.
If the nock is within the warranty period, please call us for advice or send it back for evaluation.
If everything is installed properly, it is physically impossible for Firenock to shut off in mid air or upon impact. Firenock is not a mechanical switch system but driven by a fuzzy logic system; unless the circuit board was physically broken, Firenock cannot be shut off in mid air or upon impact. With that understanding, it becomes quite easy to understand the issue is not the circuit, but the delivery of electric power to sustain the system. Like all electronics, the continuous supply of power is what keeps everything going. Any disruption of the flow of electricity will cause the system to shut off, as the system will treat it as a reset.
All Firenock LLC manufactured lighted nocks since v1.5 to current use the same battery retention system design. The International Patented, and US Patent Pending battery wire connector is not just the battery holder, but also the positive battery connector to the pin battery which powers the system. If the battery was not installed properly, the system will not function as designed. As of 2010 to further enhance the reliability of the battery retention system, we have eliminated the epoxy seal on the battery and go with an O-ring shock absorbing/insulation system. Thus the only way to prevent mid air shut off, shut off upon impact, or any other undesirable effect that caused by improper battery installation is to ensure that the battery is installed properly.
If the battery O-ring was not installed for any battery that do not have an epoxy seal, the casing of the battery (positive) can contact with the gold negative pin connector on the circuit board on impact and cause shorting of the entire system. Directly below are pictures of Firenock standard battery [BR] with and without epoxy seal and both with no battery-pin-O-ring installed. The battery wire was correctly installed in both pictures. Please note the gap between the battery head and the negative pin connector when there epoxy seal AND battery-pin-O-ring were both absent, which can be one of the causes of the issue.
The picture is what a typical bad battery installation with battery-pin-O-ring installed. Please take notice of the cross-lock wire first loop is over the head of the battery instead of a cross forming inside the neck of the battery.
If the battery wire is as picture above, the following issue(s) may occur:
After the brand new battery is installed, the lighted nock light will lit once and go dim after the first shot. This is due to the wire connector making contact with the center pin of the battery and be drained/shorted as the battery move inside the shaft as it is being shot.
The lighted nock glows very dim and the battery is dead in a day or two only after a few shots. This is due to the wire connector had contacted with the center pin a few times and the battery was shorted and it could no longer sustain a continuous power output.
The lighted nock shut off in mid air and/or upon impact. This is due to the battery is not securely locked in. As the arrow flew towards the target, the battery vibrates, the connection between the wire and the power was cut. This causes the system resets and the light goes off.
The battery dislodged from the battery retention system, flied forward and be smashed into the insert of the arrow and be deformed. As the battery cannot be not held securely by the cross-lock wire upon impact the force of the impact can dislodge the battery.
Therefore the only way to assure that your Firenock works as intended is to make sure the battery-pin-O-ring is installed and the cross lock wire after installation looked exactly like the picture below after the battery was installed.
In situation after changing the battery, the perfectly working Firenock still has similar behavior as above and the cross-lock was also installed perfectly, you can be sure that the issue is in the C-clip (the 2nd part of the battery connector). When one changes the battery, it is not unusual that the C-clip can be over stretched. The C-Clip is the primary contact to the positive end of the battery; the front cross-lock loop primary function is battery retention. When the C-clip was over stretched, it will not form a perfect connection/grip with the battery. The simple fix is to remove the battery, compress the C-clip with your finger, so it will form tighter hold onto the battery.
When one uses the Firenock Long Life [BL] which come standard on all single pack lighted nock, combined with some of the 2009 production Firenock connector gold plated wires which battery wire is a little lose will also have shut off on impact issues. This is because the shorter length of the battery pin of the [BL] combined with the looseness of the wire; actually allow the the battery to move forward enough that the battery pin actually totally disengage from the negative pin connector on impact. There are three ways to resolve this issue.
Send you Firenock and battery in and we give you the latest one has a tighter wire.
Use Standard Firenock battery only for those which the wire is a too loose
Install Extreme Shock End cap so the battery will no longer able to move; this is the recommended approach from Firenock LLC.
Last, there can be a faulty battery, too. The usual symptom of a bad battery is that upon activation, the lighted nock will give out a bright glow then dims to shut off within a few seconds. By changing the batteries (a known working one) you will know if it is a battery issue. If it is indeed a bad battery situation and the battery is newly purchased, please send it back for replacement.
Under extreme temperature or humidity, a Firenock may require 8 seconds for the system to reset before it can be deactivated. In addition, Firenocks have a built-in motion sensor for ultimate shut-off protection. A Firenock will remain lit when it encounters shock and motion within the first 4-8 seconds after it has been activated.
In case of non-red color hunting Firenock, they all use a different circuit from the basic red LED circuit. Their drawing power are significantly different. Since the logic gates variance will be too low to be recognized whenever the power is low and be considered inconsistent, it is designed so it will not allow itself to be turned on whenever the power of the battery drops below 30% of its total capacity or the voltage drops below 2.7 volts. The Firenock is still good to use, just that one can no longer drop the arrow on the nock to shut the nock off. It is part of the non-red color circuit design. A new battery is all it takes to solve this situation.
If the LED does not turn off after you follow the manual shut-off instructions and the lighted nock is within the warranty period, please call for technical advice or send it back to Firenock for evaluation. In case of any target circuit, if it does not shut off by itself 20 seconds after activation, and the lighted nock is within the warranty period, send it back to Firenock for evaluation.
There are several reasons why there might be a rattling sound when you shake the nock:
Firenock core sensor is a G switch, it is a canister and ball design. The easiest way to see if what you hear is just the G switch is to remove the battery and the O-ring(s) , reinstall the nock and circuit alone into the projectile. If the sound still persists, you are actually hearing the switch and the ball system in action. When you shake the projectile, the ball of the acceleration switch will rock inside the metal canister; as it is inside a carbon tube which now behave like an amplifier. There is no way to eliminate that noise, as it is part of the design. After 2009: the 0.15mm gap between the circuit and the nock is eliminated and -0.02mm has been added to make sure that there will be no space for the circuit to rattle. Before 2009:
there are 3 main reasons that may cause sound in a Firenock.
1) There may be a 0.15 mm gap between some older Firenock/Lightning Nock LEDs and the poly carbonate nock. Spread a thin layer of Vaseline or silicon gel on the LED and re-insert it back in the poly carbonate nock. The gel should take up the space and stop the rattling.
2) After shooting into a hard object, the circuit board clip and lock may expand the holes on the sides on the poly carbonate nock. Nock locking holes can be damaged and this will allow the circuit board room to move inside of the nock. These enlarged locking holes will exaggerate the effect of any gap as in Item 1 above. Replacing the poly carbonate nock should resolve the issue.
3) Some Firenocks come with several sizes of O-rings. Installing the incorrect O- rings will allow the battery to knock against the inner wall of the arrow shaft. Lightning Nocks (prior to the release of "LG") required the optional rubber band to stop the knocking sound. This rubber band is now standard-issue with the Lightning Nock "LG" series. The Firenock style [S] O-ring will work on the Lightning Nock "LG" series and they can be purchased on Firenock web site as an accessory.
Firenock style "A" is the tightest fit of all 11 styles of Firenock. It is due to the small size of the 0.202" arrow size. Without being as tight as it needed to be, there will not be enough pressure to hold the nock in. Not to mention that there is also not much room for anything. Firenock "A" style is also the only style of Firenock that lubricating the nock is a must for easy and successfully installation. Firenock "A" style has an O-ring that is meant to be a one time use. The O-ring in style "A" is meant to be deformed to provide extra binding effect with the internal wall of the shaft. This is why "A" style is one of the strongest designs while being the lightest due to size.
Due to the unique design of Firenock "A" it is the only Firenock that one should not do a normal single direction rotate and pull method to remove the nock from the shaft for battery change or nock replacement. When one tried to remove the nock, twisting it like one usually does with other nocks may cause the end loop to break, and may break the O-ring during the process too. One should jiggle the nock back-and-forth. Thus Firenock suggests not to twist the nock, but rather (with non-teeth/flat pliers i.e. nock may need to be replaced) just move it back and forth, with the main effort focused on pulling the Firenock straight out of the shaft. If the O-ring is left in the arrow shaft, one should be able to turn the shaft upside down and shake the O-ring out.
O-ring and nock may need to be replaced whenever the nock is removed from the shaft.
It may be caused by bad connection due to:
1) Dirt or oil is deposited on the shell of the battery during installation - clean the battery
2) The "C" lock at the end of battery dual loop connector is bent open, leaving it too loose - reinstall battery
3) The battery Pin O-ring is not installed and the shell is making contact with the pin connector on impact - replace the battery
If the nock still does not function properly after the above mentioned ways are done and it is within the warranty period, please call Firenock for assistance or for replacement.
When one installs a Firenock in an archery projectile that contains a weight tube, it is suggested to cut the weight tube equal to the space between base of the nock (without the circuit) and the insert. In case for Firenock C, E, F, S, V and Y style (i.e. the weight tube needs to cover and be over the circuit of the Firenock lighted nock system). This approach allows the weigh tube to touch the nock and ride over the Firenock circuit and battery. When one cut the weight tube to make room for the Firenock circuit and O-ring, the room which allow for the weight tube to move will actually damage the Firenock circuit. This is because when the projectile hits the target, the forward motion and impact may cause the weight tube to move backward and forward. This hammer-like action can permanently damage to Firenock circuit.
In case of Firenock style A, since there is technically no room between the circuit and inside diameter of the nock, weight tube is not recommended without the installation of of Extreme Shock Battery End Cap [XA].
The Extreme Shock Battery End Cap acts as a protector for the circuit from the impact and trashing of the weight tube upon impact. Therefore, there is no longer any issue of using a weight tube with any Firenock lighted nock system with installation of Extreme Shock Battery End Cap installed.
When your Firenock polycarbonate nock crack, there are usually one of the 3 reasons below:
During manufacturing, tiny bubbles can occur. When this occurs, a weak spot on the nock is created. When bend at the nock prongs, that tiny bubble will lead to a crack on the nock. If this is the case, please send back the nock (just the polycarbonate part) and a new set will be sent to you.
Some bow string have very thick serving, which is thicker than 0.12"/3.05 mm vs the norm 0.11"(2.8mm). Firenock nock throat is exactly 0.11"(2.800 mm). When serving diameter exceeds 0.12"/0.305 mm, the nock may crack. There are 2 ways to resolve this issue.
change the serving on the string to a thinner one
change the bow string with a thinner serving
If both methods above are not an option, if it is purchased within 30 days, please return your Firenock to where you had purchased for a full refund.
Some older bow strings may have be uneven; those bumps and groves will mar the inside of a Firenock polycarbonate nock. This mar on the nock will cause the nock to crack (i.e. nock prong may break off when shot from a bow). The only solution to this issue is using a new serving or a high quality sting that does not have the above issue. A good quality strings could be Pro string, Fury X, Winners Choice.
If your arrow speed is over 300 fps and hitting into a hard target, the impact will break the nock and disengage the circuit. Thus if your arrow speed is over 300 fps, please install extreme shock end cap. From 2013, all Firenock lighted nock comes with extreme shock end cap system. If you have purchased Firenock lighted nock without extreme shock end cap, you can purchase extreme shock end cap pack or extreme shock matched weight practice nock pack for your style of Firenock lighted nock to resolve this problem.
It may be due to:
1. There is back pressure in the arrow shaft. Please remove the field point or broadhead to release the pressure.
2. There is glue residue inside the shaft. Please clean the shaft and reinstall the end cap. While installing the end cap with tool, please straight push the end cap into the shaft. Do not rotate the end cap while installing the end cap, otherwise, glue will spread along the shaft.
There is a high possibility that the end cap is not installed properly inside the arrow shaft. Please make sure the end cap is not dislocated. If it is dislocated, please reinstall the end cap. While doing reinstallation, please clean the shaft and use super gel glue such as Firenock AG0GEL. After installation of end cap, please wait for 12 hrs for glue drying. If you do not want to wait, please tape over the battery and the connectors to prevent glue vapor depositing on circuit and battery.
Within the warranty period as stated on the package, please visit warranty for more detail. If your product warranty has expired, you have the option with our refresh and update services which are only available in the United States.
The answer is yes, Firenock S style lgithed nock can, but it will take some work as the FOB has a lip that goes right between the Nock neck and the shaft which this causes FOB not able to be used with most lighted nock. Below is the procedure:
Shave off a tiny edge from the back of the shaft! A pencil sharpener will do the job. This is to create a groove between the nock and the shaft. To square it again, recommended to use Firenock APS to make it even after the sharpening.
Drill the FOB lip hole with a 9/16 drill bit. If possible use a drill press so you can leave as little material as possible as you are only trying to make a TINY LIP for the FOB to ride onto. This would allow 0.055-0.065" of material on the lip of the FOB.
Install Firenock into the arrow. Slide the modified FOB form the back over the nock. It will go over the Firenock and the new TINY LIP will now rest over that groove between the nock and the shaft. When one shot into an animal, the FOB will move backwards and over the Firenock lighted nock without needing to pop out. So Firenock lighted nock will not be destroyed when the FOB pops out. This work quite well for those who would like to use FOB with a Firenock lighted nock.
PSE Tac nocks are glue in for a very specific reason. The shaft is a weave shaft and it gives in many ways, some gives more than others. If the nock is not glue in (like Firenock D) when there is pressure from shooting and the specific shaft gives radically (i.e., the diameter of the shaft is allow to expand) the nock can be forced into the shaft. In case of the D nock, the battery or the circuit board can be crushed. This situation is observed not only with Firenock D but also with factory black nock that is not glue in; especially the Tac shafts that were made in 2010. Many who has seen this and was told one need to glue the nock and be done.
The gluing of the nock is not a good answer for that means one must go back to the nock that cannot lit while most PSE owner agrees that they need a lighted nock to see where the arrow goes with such a fast bow. To address this, the solution to this issue is to look at the real problem/issue here. It is not the nock that is at fault, but the shaft. Its design allows it to flex radically, so we need to control that so the shaft would not expand radically. Some research later, we believe there is a perfect fix!
The outside diameter of the Tac-15 is 0.350". Carbon express CXL™ Pro 250 's outside diameter is 0.350" and it has a Bull Dog™ nock collar on it. The collar holds the back end of the shaft from expanding. I believe this is the perfect answer for controlling the Tac shaft from expanding. Like all Firenock application with bull dog collar, it is imperative that one must glue the collar onto the shaft or the Firenock will be decapitated when shot into hard object due to the movement of the collar.
It is not critical to install the BullDog collar first, even the collar will add a full 1 mm to the length of the shaft. If the extreme shock end cap was installed first then the bull dog collar was added later, the depth of the extreme shock end cap could be 1 mm too deep which would allow the circuit board room to move. You should leave that alone as for now. If you already installed the extreme shock end cap and is concerned about the matter; you can added a tiny piece of paper to the bottom of the battery or anything that you can add to pick up that space so NOTHING moves! It is also known that in some case due to the fact that the CXL is much thinner wall shaft compare to the Tac arrow, it is possible that he D nock will push aside the top of the bulldog collar and reseat itself on the D arrow. It is totally normal as the top of the bulldog collar is really thin. Therefore it is critical that the back of your Tac shaft be totally straight, before you do install a Firenock D on it; WITH or WITHOUT a bull dog collar. Below are picture of Firenock being push into a Tac shaft, and a bulldog collar being expanded but totally fine shooting with a Firenock D.
Please make sure your bolt is the latest from the production as they do feel tighter with Firenock D than what was seen at 2010. If you remotely feel that the nock is not tight on the shaft, using the Carbon Express CXL Bull Dog collar as discuss above. Installing the BullDog collar on the back of the shaft will guarantee to eliminate the possibility of the nock being push into the shaft issue. Please be careful and take all precaution. Please also note that if the nock is not totally seated flush with the shaft this can also happen. After discussion with PSE regional manager, it is confirm that he is able to reproduce this when the Firenock D is not totally sit flush on the shaft. i.e. a little gap between the nock and the shaft will also cause as picture below!
Please note how the BullDog collar expand after a few shots, but it is totally fine after Firenock D reseats itself as the BullDog collar is preventing the nock from pushing into the shaft!
Firenock makes a number of nocks to fit different serving sizes from 0.115" - 0.165", which the nocks will fit the 0.300" internal diameter arrows like the Tac, GoldTip Laser II, Laser II Pro, Laser III, Harvest Time HS-X, Victory, and most Easton carbon crossbow shafts.
Firenock V - fit serving size of 0.115" - 0.125" (In-line)
Firenock Q - fit serving size of 0.135" - 0.145" (Scorpyd, Parker)
Firenock J - fit serving size of 0.145" - 0.165" (Barnett)
Firenock D - fit serving size of 0.155" - 0.165" (PSE-Tac)
It is normal to feel finger tight while fitting Firenock D into AeroBolt 2. If you want tighter fit, you can use a tiny drop of super glue to secure the nock into the AeroBolt 2. Do not apply too much glue, otherwise you cannot remove the nock and change the battery.